Dr Vino's wine blog

On board AA 955

Well, this posting may be written on the plane but it’s not going to be posted while I’m on the plane since there’s no internet.

Especially for an airline with a name like AA, the wine choices on the plane are not nearly as dismal as I had expected. A kiwi SB and a Sonoma Chardonnay, a Napa cab and the Luigi Bosca Malbec DOC. Somehow I thought they might be so diplomatically insensitive as to serve Chilean merlot!

tags: wine | American Airlines

Pretty often when I come back from a big tasting, Mrs. Vino asks me how it was and I smile and say “great!” Then she tells me I have purple teeth. Gulp. Such are the hazards of the job.

But apparently a red wine rinse can be good for your teeth. A few weeks ago, researchers at Universite Laval in Quebec released a study showing that the polyphenols in red wine inhibit periodontal disease. Wow, um, who knew!

Since I am heading to the polyphenol capital of red wine, the high-altitude Mendoza, my gums ought to be in great shape when I return next week. But what am I packing in my bag to ward off the inky stains of the Malbec? Tom’s of Maine baking soda toothpaste. Might as well try to keep ’em pearly white too.

tags: wine | polyphenols | purple teeth

One of these two headlines from Decanter.com is a spoof. Which is it? Hard to tell at first glance!

Government orders bird flu protection at En Primeur
As the spread of the H5N1 bird flu virus continues to cause concern across Europe, the French government has ordered Bordeaux chateaux to take protective measures for the barrel tastings next week. [link]

Macho image for new range of reds
A wine aimed exclusively at men is set to launch in the US – and there won’t be any Pinot Noir in the range. [link]

tags: wine | April fool

Many journalists and wine retailers are descending on Bordeaux next week to taste the barrel samples of the supposedly superlative (and this time they mean it!) 2005 vintage. But last weekend I headed in the opposite direction to taste some excellent Bordeaux: I went to Chicago.

The wines that I tasted weren’t in the barrel. In fact, the 2002s that I tried have been available for a year or more. They have even been on retailers’ shelves for so long that I found a good one having a sale on 02 Bordeaux and couldn’t resist snapping up some bargains from what turned out to be an overlooked vintage.

The cause of the trip to Chicago was a class at the University of Chicago. The 30 attendees and I pondered the problems and potential in the two French regions of Bordeaux and Languedoc. It turns out that one of the participants has a blog of her own, so I’ll refer you to her for more detailed notes.

Here’s the lineup with little scribble on each. Overall head to the Medoc to scoop up the bargains that are 2002 Bordeaux.

Cinquante Cinq Viognier vin de pays d’oc $10 (find this wine)
Ho-hum, gets the job done. On the deck in the summer that is.

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, 2003 Pessac-Leognan ($30) (find this wine)
Crisp acidity but a surprising amount of oak. Give this to a New Zealander and she would never guess that it’s Sauvignon Blanc.

Domaine Des Schistes Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2003 $12 (find this wine)
Balanced between acidity and tannin, taste the terroir! Easy drinking for Monday – Thursday.

Chateau D’Aussieres Corbieres 2003 $22 (find this wine)
I had to include this since it is a Lafite-owned project in the Corbieres–a synthesis of our two regions. Sadly, it was a tannic monster that I doubt will ever settle down.

Mas de Daumas Gassac, vdp d l’Herault 2003. $30 (find this wine)
When I poured it blind, the consensus was Bordeaux. Well, it is 80% Cab (and 20% of 10 other varieties) after all. It’s a serious wine from renegade winemaker Aime Guibert that has a long finish and would no doubt last decades in the cellar. This was the wine of the class for many people.

Chateau Gruaud Larose, 2002 Saint-Julien $38 (find this wine)
Approachable at this early age, balanced, mmm, delicious.

Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron – 2002 Pauillac $40 (find this wine)
Too young now for the Baron, but a serious wine that will be better in 3 years.

Chateau Cos D’Estournel – 2002 Saint-Estephe $65 (find this wine)
Excellent, dark, blackcurrant, tannins, slightly disappointing finish. But 50% more than the Baron? Bring me the Baron!

Chateau Suduiraut – 2002 Sauternes $22 375ml (find this wine)
Classic Suaternes at a very reasonable price. I bought more later.

Abbe Rous, Helyos, 2003, Banyuls, $40 (find this wine)
Very rich, but not unbalanced or over-the-top. One person ran out and got his wife a chocolate bar and she said it was a great pairing!

Separately I tasted the 2002 Lafon Rochet (find this wine). Approachable now but still could benefit from a year or two (or 10) in the cellar. This is the steal of the vintage at $20. I bought a case!

Note: I hope to see you for the Pinot Showdown, May 13, University of Chicago.

tags: wine | Bordeaux | Languedoc

While the Supreme Court set in motion a liberalization of state-level wine laws last year with its decision on direct wine shipments, the leading e-commerce site for wine was quickly–and ironically–running out of money according to boardroom dealings exposed in a San Francisco courthouse.

A story in last week’s Times Small Business column detailed the travails of wine.com. The domain name itself set a record in 1999 for wine domains fetching $2.9 million. Now it may be one of the firm’s most valuable assets.

Wine.com rolled several companies together in the bursting of the tech bubble to sell wine via the internet to consumers. By 2004, the company was looking for funds and raised $20 million, most of it from Baker Capital, a hedge fund in New York City according to the story.

A year later, the company was in a “distressed situation” according to former CEO George Garrick. John Malone’s Liberty Media allegedly offered to buy the company for $67.5 million and bring it into their stable alongside QVC, Encore, Starz, and Provide Commerce’s sales of flowers, fruit and steaks on the web. Garrick and the wine.com board contend they accepted the deal while Baker Capital invoked their veto of any potential merger. Garrick and other investors are now suing Baker Capital for blocking the deal and subsequently offering financing that diluted existing investors by 60-70 percent.

Just how much money Baker Capital decanted into wine.com in 2005 is unclear since wine.com is a privately held company. Nor is it clear whether they have righted the ship that caused $20 million to disappear between 2004 and 2005. Maybe they are on an even keel now. But if they do have to liquidate, just don’t use Provide to send them flowers.

tags: wine | wine.com | e-commerce | venture capital

Don’t cry for me — I’m going to Argentina.

This time next week, I’ll be riding across the pampas. OK, most likely in a van and inspecting vineyards, not cattle, but I’ll do my best gaucho impression anyway.

I’m joining a press trip organized by the Wines of Argentina trade group. We first head to Salta, an expansive and beautiful region in the northwest that borders Bolivia and Chile. Then we’ll transit to Mendoza, the epicenter of Argentine wine making at the foothills of the Andes. Then it’s back to Buenos Aires and its wine bars before hopping on the plane home.

I’m looking forward to hopefully meeting Susana Balbo and posting another (overdue!) installment in the Real Wine World.

The reason I mention this now is not to get you green with envy. Rather, if you have any questions you’d like me to ask or suggestions for travel let me know before I go. I’ll do my best to keep you posted in real time via the blog but I’m not sure where we’ll stand on the axis of internet connection/deprivation.

I look forward to getting the latest from this exciting part of the wine world. There’s been so much change over the last few years with the currency collapse, rising quality, and increasing internationalization. Heck, the president is even calling on Argentines to eat less beef!

Map source: The Economist

tags: wine | Argentine wine | Argentina

Spring has sprung with the vernal equinox last week. It’s time for you to spring for some Savennieres–or at least a dry Chenin Blanc.

I have tried several wines from this 700-acre appellation on the banks of the Loire recently and while they are undoubtedly great at all times of the year, they seemed particularly appropriate for spring. Floral on the nose, totally filling the mouth with a rich intensity, minerality and acidity, the wines are rewarding and worth it even if they cost about $25 a bottle.

So, on to the wines. I wrote about the Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillion 2002 (find this wine) recently and how it pleased a small crowd.

Madame de Jessey of Domaine de Closel poured me a taste of her 03 Papllion (find this wine) out of decanter, “always the best way for a Savennieres,” she said. Barrel fermented, this wine had a softness that made it attractive beyond the other regional characteristics.

Finally, I had the wines of La Coulee de Serrant. Nicolas Joly told me that despite the heat of the 2003 vintage, his biodynamically farmed wines weathered well. In his entry-level Les Clos Sacres (find this wine) was rich in color, had soaring aromas, and an excellent balance between acidity and minerality. Joly recommended opening the wines 12-24 hours before drinking them and said they can continue to improve–not even deteriorate!–for 3 to 5 days. That’s a claim I’d like to put to the test.

In her 1996 Wine and Food Guide to the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich also recommends Clos du Coulaine, Clos de Perrieres, and Chateau d’Epire as other top producers in the small area. She also says that the wines are quite age worthy (the 1975 Baumard Papillion was “so glorious it brought tears to my eyes,” she writes). Even Robert Parker told the New York Times last week that “I still think Savennières is the most underrated great white wine in the world.”

With praise like that, you’d better spring for the Savennieres before it’s all gone!

tags: wine | Savennieres | Chenin Blanc

The new Astor Wine and Spirits glistens. It shines. It’s brand spanking new.

I dropped by last week to see the new store since the owners recently left their old location of 40 years. This new store is 50 percent larger and 150 percent more atmospheric. It has a “cool room” where a humming cooling unit chills the sakes, age-worthy and fragile wines to 55 degrees.

There’s also a curving tasting bar for handing out periodic free tastings. When I was there on Thursday afternoon, it was besieged with those wishing to try the Greek wines being poured in glasses (will the plastic of the previous location stay permanently banned?).

A huge plasma TV hangs over the bar. Since watching a video of grapes fermenting is about as exciting as watching one of me typing this post, I wonder what sort of programming they will run when it is eventually turned on (please, dear Bacchus, no sports!). To counterbalance the TV, on the other end of the store, a wall of built-in bookshelves houses a huge inventory of wine books for sale and perusal.

Some shelves remain bare but the wines are coming in. I just hope the prices will not be going up.

399 Lafayette at 4th Street, New York, NY 10003
Open 9AM – 9PM (Sunday noon – 5PM)
Subway: Line 6, Astor Place
212-674-7500
Astor remains one of my favorite wine stores in New York City. Map it on my map of New York City wine shops!

Swanky new entrance

The cool room still needs some filling up…

…but the tasting bar doesn’t

Handsome arched ceilings (barely visible in this poorly lit snapshot)

tags: wine | Astor wines | wine