Hot grapes
Jancis Robinson predicts which off-the-beaten-path grape varietals are likely to make it big in the Weekend Financial Times. It’s definitely worth a read but here’s a snippet:
Wine professionals and serious wine aficionados are more likely to look for something a bit more outré than the most familiar grapes and, more and more, they are getting it. Ten years ago it looked as though the world’s vineyards might soon be planted with nothing but the most famous international vine varieties. Today the pendulum is swinging most definitively back towards biodiversity with the rediscovery, or at least re-evaluation of local, almost forgotten specialties (sometimes called heritage varieties – the wine world’s answer to heirloom tomatoes), and a much wider range of vines in general.
My own personal theory for this encouraging development is that it is not because the average consumer is desperate for a change from Chardonnay and Merlot. Rather the reverse in fact.
To the list I would add Aglianico from Campania and Basilicata in the south of Italy. And definitely Malbec but I suspect she left that off because it is now almost mainstream (though not quite yet in my view). When done well, Verdejo can be a refreshing blast of acidity for those tired of kiwi Sauvignon Blanc. And Greco di Tufo can offer surprising complexity for an Italian white.
In all, it’s great to celebrate diversity. What are some of your faves?
On September 11th, 2005 at 6:35 pm ,Terence Hughes wrote:
Actually, Jancis mentioned aglianico and gave it her version of a 90+ (I jest.)
As to me, I’m crazy about the Italian whites she mentioned (fiano/falanghina/grechetto) and, sticking with the Italian theme, am equally keen on grillo, frappato and teroldego. All great to drink on their own but, of course, shine when paired with the regional cuisines.
On September 12th, 2005 at 2:14 pm ,Dr. Vino wrote:
Hi Terry,
Can you recommend any producers for those indigenous varietals?
I had the Vesuvo 04 Greco de Tufo and thought it was good especially with a potato/watercress soup…
Cheers,
Tyler
On September 16th, 2005 at 5:26 pm ,Terence Hughes wrote:
Gladly, Dr. Vino!
Jancis and I both like the falanghina by Feudi San Gregorio, and I have a real soft spot for the slightly less expensive and slightly more exuberant (and less oaky) whites from Petilia, which is in the same area as Feudi S. G. Both of them make good fiano, and I am crazy about their Greco di Tufo. Ocone’s falanghina is also great.
Try Sella & Mosca’s lovely, dry, light vermentino. Inexpensive, a fine everyday wine for hot-weather drinking.
As to reds, where do I begin? Well, here are a couple to start…
I’ve had a number of nice aglianicos, and Ocone’s is a good one to try. Inexpensive and fantastic price/quality. Nero d’Avola? Valle dell’Acate has a nice one, but I have to credit the wonderful Jancis Robinson for tipping me to the sensational nero d’Avola from Ceuso (Scurati–one od their secondary lines, and according to JR and Gambero Rosso, about as fine as their more exalted ones).
Finally, sticking to South, try one of the Argiolas reds from cannonau or monica (Sardinia). Again, good value and loaded with character.
There’s more, much more, but…
On September 16th, 2005 at 7:56 pm ,Terence Hughes wrote:
Mamma mia!
I mixed up Valle dell’Acate’s wonderful, cherrylike Frappato (consider it the Italian Beaujolais, if you like) with someone else’s nero d’Avola.
I neglected to mention a little-known gem: Contini’s fantastic Nieddera (that’s a local variety)–a huge favorite of mine for under $20 from Sardinia.