Dr Vino's wine blog

Hefty red

Vinedos de El Seque, Alicante, 2003, $9.79
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Alicante is more known for the beach life and golf courses than the wine. But Artadi, the respected wine producer from the Rioja, is setting out make value-conscious enthusiasts look twice at the region with this wine. Juan-Carlos Lopez de la Call, the owner of Artadi, purchased the old estate a few years ago mainly for its old vines and his renovations are bearing fruit. The Monastrell (Mouvèdre) grape gives this wine a dark color and a full bodied quality with notes of leather, blackberry and tar with a pleasant finish. If only more top Spanish producers would provide US consumers such an innovative way to maintain good values in face of the rising euro. Eric Solomon Selections, importer.

Crisp whites

Alamos, Viognier, 2003. $9. Find this wine Viognier, the fickle white grape at its most expressive in the Rhone’s Condrieu, has become a jet setter recently popping up in California, Australia, and now Argentina. The adopted homes of the grape have yet to capture the excellence and concentration of Condrieu and many have yielded uneven results at

best. But this offering from the high-altitude (5,000 ft) vineyards
of Catena, the steady Mendoza producer, represents at least a good
value. Notes of peach and flowers prevail and the wine as good acidity
and a clean finish that would make it a good accompaniment to Indian
food. As I’ve said before, remember the Alamos! Billington Imports.

Mas Carlot, white, Costieres de Nimes, 2003. $7 Find
this wine
Marsanne and Roussanne frequently play the part of the supporting
cast. However, even though their names rarely appear as the leading
lights of the front label, these white grapes make the often formidable
wines of the Hermitage appellation in the Rhone valley. Since
grape varietals to date have not been permitted on appellation
labels, Marsanne and Roussanne have an “undiscovered” discount
built into them. But this bottle from a small and worthy producer
in the the Nimes region is worth discovering. Stainless steel tank
fermentation preserves the freshness of the fruit flavors and aromas,
with peaches and melons notable. Try with pecorino sheep cheese
and fig spread. Yummy! Imported by Robert Kacher.

Veramonte, Maipo Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001, $8. Find this wine I was recently in a jam in upstate New York where I needed to find a bottle to bring over to a relative. When I found a wine (but mostly spirits) shop I skipped the cases of soulless Shiraz from Australia and hit upon this bargain. Sure, it’s not artisinal production since Veramonte is part of the global empire of Constellation Brands, but it is widely available and affordable and those count for something. Dark almost like a Bordeaux, but soft tannins and blackberry aromas that make it easy drinking, this Cab is better than many California Cabs that cost more than twice the price. The 2004 Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc (“en screw” as Randall Graham would say) is also a refreshing blast of grapefruit that goes well with seafood. Franciscan Estates, importer.

Sparkler

Mionetto, “Il,” Prosecco, NV. $9.99 ($6 for 375 ml) Find this wine Why not pop a top this new year’s eve instead of a cork? This gently sparkling wine, aka prosecco, from the hills of the Veneto region north of Venice has a sleek, stout bottle with a beer cap on top. Straw in color with a thin bead and weighing in at a mere 10.5% alcohol, this dry wine has notes of melon and apple. But its versatility and fun packaging mean that it can be enjoyed throughout the year and not just to ring in the new one. Importer, Mionetto USA.

Sweetish white

Valckenberg, Gewurztraminer, Pfalz, 2003, $10.49
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this wine
Some casual wine drinkers have a knee-jerk reaction against Riesling.
If you want to trick one of these non-believers, then try serving
this Gewurztraminer instead. Crisp and clean the wine has notes
of white peach, citrus, litchi and faint spice. The Pfalz region
produces some standout whites (indeed, this wine is so good it could
be considered without “Pfalz”!) and the hot 2003 summer shows them
at an excellent quality level. This value vino is a terrific pairing
with stir fry and would make a great match with pork tenderloin
as well. Add some spice to your sweetie. Valckenberg Imports, US
Importer.

Sweetest white!

R. L. Buller premium fine Muscat, NV, Australia.
375ml, $12. Find
this wine
Is ending a sumptuous holiday feast with a fortified wine a little
too much? If yes, then try this one on a non-feast night this winter
for a decadent treat. It’s not a port but instead an even sweeter
Australian “sticky,” an intense blend of cask-aged, decades-old
vintages of Muscat from Victoria. Amber in color, you can practically
wring the molasses and maple syrup out of this wine. It will probably
be too concentrated for most people who enjoy table wines, so wine
geeks can unite with grandparents and those who are just getting
into wine to enjoy this affordable sticky—or try it with a cheese
course of Roquefort or Bleu d’Auvergne. The finish is so long that
it will linger well after the dishes are gone.

Light reds

Mondo del Vino, Tre Uve. NV. $8 Find
this wine
With three grape varietals from three different growing areas of
Italy, no vintage, and the humble table wine designation this wine
may seem like a recipe for homogenized and pasteurized blandness.
In fact it is a compelling value. The “three grapes” of the wine
comprise a Sangiovese, bulked up by Nero d’Avola, and Primitivo.
Black fruits and dried herbs are present aromas washed down on the
palate by an Italian acidity. An excellent quaffer for pasta and
pizza. Readers in the UK can enjoy the Tre Uve Ultima, not available
in the US. James G. Stock, importer.

Cusumano, Nero d’Avola, IGT Sicily, 2003. $8.49
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this wine
Southern Italy in general and Sicily in particular is emerging as
a great center for excellent value wines. This wine is a good example
of how wines from the region often defy the conventional Old World-New
World stylistic split. From 10 year old vines of the indigenous
grape, the Nero d’Avola, the wine is made in a fruit forward style
that makes it easily accessible. Young, fruity, and approachable—it’s
definitely a new Sicilian. Fairly high in acid, though balanced
with a wad of cherry and blackberry, this wine is a great match
for pizza. Importer: Vin DiVino.

San Gregorio, Tres Ojos, Calatayud, 2003. $6.79 Find this wine This old vine Grenache is like a Gregorian chant with a thumping bass. Light in color but with hearty aromas of earth, berries and pepper and a delicate sweetness characteristic of the grape, this wine from the Northern Spanish of D.O. Calatayud provides further evidence that cooperatives can make great, affordable wines. Romans, Moors, and now the Aragonese have settled in the region and the limestone and slate soils have proved an excellent home to these Grenache vines for the last 50 years. Snap up this bargain by the case to enjoy over the next year or two. Kysela Pere et Fils, importer.

Beyond the grade (but worth it):
Quinta do Vale Meao, Duoro, 2000. $40 Find
this wine
Veramonte, Primus, Casablanca Valley, 2001. $14 Find
this wine
Chalone, Pinot Noir, 2002. $25 Find
this wine
La Fleur Petrus, 1999, $44 Find
this wine