Value vino list number ten
Fresh, crisp white
Clos Roche Blanche, Sauvignon blanc, AOC Touraine, 2003, $9.99. Find this wine
If you have ever wondered what a “handcrafted” wine were like, you need look no farther than this wine. Beyond simply organic, which the proprietors have had their wines certified since 1995, the wine is manipulated almost exclusively by gravity from maceration to its unfiltered bottling (by hand). This minimal intervention assures a pure expression of the chalky soils, which follows through on the palate with a flinty minerality as well as crisp acidity and hints of gooseberry. Light and unpretentious like the appellation, the wine is better than your average summer quaffer. And it is a good way to end Le Tour (de France) this week since it hails from the city of Tours! Louis/Dressner imports.
Dry, refreshing rosé
Domaine de Saint Antoine, rosé, Costieres de Nimes, 2003. $8. Find this wine
As the Tour de France closes in on the Nimes area this week it is a great chance to highlight this dark-hued rosé. One of several good value dry rosés from the region, it has notes of wild strawberries that practically leap from the glass. Stick this one in your picnic basket this summer-or drink this pink while cheering Lance on to the Yellow Jersey. Imported by Robert Kacher.
Medium-bodied reds
Castaño, Monastrell 2003, $6.99. Find this wine
It is a sign of the times that this is the recommended wine from Castano, a reliable family-owned producer from the remote D.O. Yecla. In previous years, their old vine Solanera has been under $10 but with the rise of the euro we now have the straight Monastrell (aka Mouvedre) in that price category. But we should be easily consoled since it such a great value. The opaque, dark ruby wine in the glass immediately signals seriousness while the big aromas of dark berries and gentle spice make it a leading contender for the title of House Red. Eric Solomon, importer.
Castelmaure, “Tryptic” AOC Corbieres, 2001. $7.49. Find this wine
Perched in a high valley, just a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean, this cooperative winery is a great place to get the rustic authenticity that the Corbieres can make so effortlessly and cheaply. Better than many of its peers from the region, this medium-bodied blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache (20-40-40) has rounded, earthy notes full of red berry and some spice all of which makes it an excellent accompaniment to grilled food (try it with chiles rellenos stuffed with gorgonzola). A great way to escape inflationary pressures of imported wines. Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils.
I Portali (red), Basilium W, Aglianico del Vulture DOC, 2002. $9.99. Find this wine
Budget-minded enthusiasts who turn to this wine from the southern Italian region of Aglianico del Vulture will be amply rewarded. The Aglianico grape that comprises 100% of the wine may be unknown in the US but has been in the region for 3500 years (and is very timely given the Athens Olympics since Aglianico means Hellenic, referring to the probable origins of the varietal). A dark reddish-purple in color, this full-bodied bodied wine has a silky smooth character that comes from the hand-harvesting and selection of the grapes as well as 14 months in oak. It is an excellent compliment to hard or aged cheese, such as pecorino, or grilled meats. Importer Gregory Smolik deserves recognition for providing such an informative back label–others should follow. Join the “vulture culture”!
Chateau Guiot, Costieres de Nimes, rosé, 2003. $9. Find this wine
The Costieres de Nimes region has produced many excellent values as readers of these pages know. Mas de Guiot had an excellent red in 2001. And — wow! — this rosé from the same producer (confusingly known as Chateau in this bottling) is excellent stuff. Not overly tart as are many rosés and a more reddish hue of pink, this wine is a full and rounded accompaniment to a wide variety of foods, especially when consumed al fresco. And it is not at all sweet. Robert Kacher, importer.
Red Truck, red table wine, California, 2002. $9.99. Find this wine Is this another gimmicky wine name (as with the many animal names on labels) that is worth a laugh but not a buy? In fact, Red Truck not only has potentially the most eye-catching label of the year but is worth taking for more than a metaphorical test-drive. And without a grape variety on the label, it is worth checking under the hood to find that this wine has a blend of Mourvedre and Syrah as well as some Merlot and Pinot Noir. Sourced from several vineyards in Contra Costa County owned by Cline Cellars, the producer, the wine in the glass has tons of red fruit aromas and flavors, a short-ish finish, but enough character to makes it a good accompaniment for the barbeque. With oil prices so high, reach for this red truck instead of the one in the garage.
Domaine D’Andezon, Cotes du Rhone, 2001, $9.49. Find this wine
Why is Syrah fast becoming the world’s most popular red grape? One sip of the wine will let you know. Unlike most Cotes du Rhones that blend Grenache and Syrah, this Domaine D’Andezon is pure Syrah, from about 50 year old vines, bottled unfiltered. In a blind tasting it could easily be mistaken for an Aussie Shiraz with its very lively nose of dark fruits including plums and
berries, but the good acidity indicates a cooler growing climate and gives it an excellent concentration. Very food friendly. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars.
Gerard Bertrand, Les Cailloutis, AOC Corbières, 1999. $9. Find this wine
A red blend from the Corbieres appellation of Languedoc might look enticing but leave you wondering: just which grapes varietals are in the wine? Well, thanks to an informative back label, the consumer knows with precision what makes up this yummy wine from Gerard Bertrand (Carignan, 40%; Syrah, 20%; Grenache 30%; Mourvedre, 10%). With an inky-purple color and a solid mid-palate, this earthy wine with notes of dark berry is ready to drink now and goes great with a pizza. Importer: VinDivino.
Big Red
Chateau La Sentinelle, AOC Cotes de Castillon, 2000. $9.99 Find this wine
Bordeaux is often considered to be either the world’s premier address for quality wine or a place of uninspiring bulk wine. But there is a third, often neglected, category of producers in far-flung appellations who are making interesting wines at a fraction of the price of the top chateaux. Such is the case in the Cotes de Castillon, which lies beyond celebrated St. Emilion. This Chateaux La Sentinelle has an inky-purple color with the classic Bordeaux terroir on the nose of this mostly merlot blend. And at $10, this is a Bordeaux 2000 for everyday consumption!! Importer: Wine Vine.
