Dr Vino's wine blog

Whites
Steele, Shooting Star, Washington State, Aligoté. 2001. $9.95
Jed Steele, the winemaker from Lake County California, has sourced this exciting white with fruit from Washington State. The obscure Aligoté rarely gets to be a headline act as it has traditionally played a supporting role to Chardonnay in Burgundy. But the future for Aligoté in the lead role will be more than a shooting star if winemakers continue to make it in this appealing style. This wine from a two-acre plot is aged in old oak barrels, making it rounded without being oaky, and is an excellent food wine (try it with grilled swordfish). Catch a bottle of Shooting Star, before it becomes a star! www.steelewines.com

Cuvées de Castilla, Cuvee R.S., DO Rueda, $6.
As the prices of Spanish wines go up, budget-oriented consumers may have to move down-the river in this case. Just down the Duero River from the excellent and increasingly high-rent growing area of Ribera del Duero, lies Rueda and the vineyards of this excellent value white. It’s not just the grape varietals that count here (since they are mostly the little known Verdejo and Viura) but the freshness in the glass that matters more. With floral notes in the aroma and firm citrus base on the palate, this wine is a hands-down winner on the deck in the summer (drink up, those of you in the southern hemisphere! The rest of us can drink it and be nostalgic for summer.). Try with seafood or as an aperitif with a sharp dry cheese such as manchego. Eric Solomon, importer.

Mas Carlot, Cuvee R (Riesling), 2002, $7.
If you think that a Riesling from the south of France is not strange enough, consider that this vintage of this exotic wine did not sacrifice quality despite massive flooding in the region just prior to harvest. The Cuvee R is an excellent white, strikingly golden in color and complements spicy food such as stir-fry very well. A refreshing crispness derives from the pleasant firmness of the acidity that also has a generous coating of lychees. Sadly, this vintage will be the last one for this unusual wine. According to Bobby Kacher, the wine’s American importer, the one-acre plot of old vines has been forcibly uprooted at the demands of the Alsace producers of Riesling, despite the many efforts of Mas Carlot (such as making it a humble table wine as opposed to AOC) to mollify them. So raise a glass of this final bargain vintage while it is still available. Robert Kacher, importer.

Reds
Capçanes, Mas Donis, “Barrica” 2001. $10.41
Where do value-oriented wine drinkers find their Priorat? In Montsant! As the price of wines from the small Priorat region of southern Catalonia has had a vertiginous recent rise, neighboring Montsant is picking up steam. Capcanes is an old cooperative of growers that has a portfolio of enticing value and high quality red wines. The Mas Donis Barrica 2001 is made from 60 year old vines (mostly Grenache and some Syrah), aged in American oak and bottled unfiltered. Not a fruit blunderbuss, the wine hits the mark with the precision of a sniper. Black cherry and tobacco make the wine compelling and long lasting and an excellent accompaniment to meals. Eric Solomon, importer.

Castell del Remei, Gotim Bru, 2001. $10.49
Castell del Remei is a house known for fine value vino. Investment from the Cusine family in wine making talent and the vineyard mean that variations among vintages will be slim. The Gotim Bru was formerly one of the most exciting wines under $10 but it has crept up in price and come down a smidge in terms of quality (although it is still worth seeking out). While the 99 and the 2000 vintages were legends in their own time, the 2001 shows signs of being mortal. The color remains ruby red and the aroma and tastes are slightly more berry and grapey than they were previously. Nonetheless, the tempranillo grape that serves as the base for this wine makes it a wine that is very food friendly. Eric Solomon, importer.

Cousino-Macul, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002. $9
What do you do when a city grows up around your vineyard? This is a problem that confronted the Cousiño family at their 800-acre Macul vineyard (planted in 1856) as Santiago built up all around it. Feeling the pressures of urbanization, the family sold half the vineyard (still open for visits) and built a state of the art winery in Buin, 20 miles to the south-west in the Maipo Valley. This young wine, the first from the new winery, has notes of cherry and smoked meats and the tannins will make it a favorite of those who enjoy “big reds.” The Antiguas Reservas is more refined at a higher price point ($16). Imported by Billington Imports.

Domaine Santa Duc, les vieilles vignes, Cotes du Rhone, 2001 $9 (sale).
The current vintage of this wine remains just as compelling as the previous one making this a value vino name to set in stone. The humble CDR appellation belies the complexity and refinement of this lush, leathery and lingering wine from a leading producer of Chateauneuf. Moreover, even alongside the Rasteau 2001 ($16) from the same producer, this CDR was the winner. A robust red that is versatile with food pairings from ravioli to roast beef. Robert Kacher, importer.

Dominis M, red, vdp Catalan, 2002. $8.50
With a similar name as the famed Napa producer Dominus, but at a fraction of the price, this wine begs the question of what would you prefer, a case of easy-drinking table wine or one excellent bottle? If you opt for the lower bottle price of the former, then Dominis M is the way to go. Inky-purple in color with gobs of vibrant, dark fruit, the young wine is immediately accessible and drinkable. In fact, this vin de pays would make a great wine for a picnic especially in France, where it would probably cost about €4. Eric Solomon, importer.

Enate, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, D.O. Somotano, 2001. $8.50
This ultramodern winery (founded 1991) makes wines from international varietals high in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Ever heard of a Spanish Gewurztraminer? They make one (and it is apparently good). From the off-the-beaten path (up and coming?) growing area Somotano in Huesca, this cabernet/merlot blend is an inky red in color with notes of blackcurrant and black cherry. Balanced and medium-bodied, the wine goes well with food, such as a risotto. And with a price tag of €7 in Spain, the wine is a shockingly good value in the US. Eric Solomon, importer. www.enate.es

Peace Family Vineyard, South Eastern Australia 2003. $6
Was 2003 a year for peace? If you’re the Australian wine maker Andrew Peace, every year is full of Peace but now is a good time to play on the name. Complete with artistic peace sign on the label, this value red has a blend of four red varietals (shiraz, cabernet, Grenache, and mataró in descending order) with plenty of initial cherry and dark fruits though not a long finish. Not a wine for cellaring, it is a bargain for grilled meats straight off the barbie. Nor is it a wine for impressing out-of-town guests-unless you are trying to make a point and the guest happens to be Donald Rumsfeld. TGIC, importer.

Beyond the grade (but worth it):
Morambro Creek, Padthaway, shiraz, 2002 ($20)
San Pedro de Yacochuya, 2001 ($45)