Seeing stars (or not)
Michelin released the results of the first ever Red Guide New York and some gourmets have their forks out for the inspectors. Only four restaurants got the top honor of three stars (Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Jean Georges, Le Bernardin and Per Se) and only four restaurants received two stars (Daniel, Masa, Bouley and Danube). Thirty one restaurants received one star including the Spotted Pig, a Greenwich Village gastro-pub, and Saul in Brooklyn, which has a $30 prix fixe menu Monday to Thursday.
Mario Batali, who Time Out New York last week called a “legend” and a “grand master,” got only one star for his popular Italian restaurant Babbo. Daniel Boulud, another “grand master” according to TONY, was also slighted by not getting a third star. Chanterelle, Montrachet and Union Square Café–all pioneers of the restaurant scene in New York–got no stars. Thomas Keller of Per Se was the first American-born chef to ever receive three Michelin stars. The Guide officially goes on sale Friday.
The best take on the guide appeared in the Weekend Financial Times. Freelance writer Mike Steinberger (also Slate’s wine critic–great life, eh?) argues that “New York is as good as Paris” for restaurants and after recent scandals at Michelin’s guide publishing, that Michelin “may need New York more than New York needs it.”
Indeed, New York seems to be listening to the vox populi more than professional critics. Tim and Nina Zagat have made a publishing empire with their slim little guide of diners’ composite reviews. And discussion forums such as chowhound.com and egullet.org and various blogs offer up-to-the minute reviews from empassioned enthusiasts. That’s a crowded field for the Red Guide to enter and one with a culture clash of top-down or bottom-up. But it seems to be weathering the storm well already clocking in at #67 on Amazon three days before the official release.
FT, NYT. Technorati tags: food & drink | michelin | New York
