Vinho Verde, Famega

Vinho Verde, Fâmega, NV $4.49 find this wine

I have always thought of vinho verde as something of a wine curiosity since it’s neither green as the name would imply nor a still wine because of slight effervescence. Heck, it’s hardly even a wine by today’s standards since it has only 9 percent alcohol! But after years of scoffing at vinho verde I tried this one—not of my own free will, of course. It mysteriously ended up in a case of wine that I ordered on line. I’m glad it did. It is a fantastically easy drinking aperitif wine with a sort of bluish hue, bubbles, and good acidity. With the low price and low alcohol, you could really put some of this away. And at under $50 a case at Astor Wines-—too bad summer is almost over! Importer: Admiral Wine Imports, Cedar Grove NJ.

By the way, I have been a slacker over the past two weeks and out of technological fatigue have posted my value vino picks here. Recently reviewed:

Lafazinis, St. George, Pelopennese, 2004. $10 Find this wine

Los Planos, Syrah, D.O. Carinena, 2003 $8 Find this wine

Wine on notice!


Who knew Stephen Colbert was so into wine? But jeesh, we’re under attack!

Thanks shipbrook.com! [via New York magazine]

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Bernard Magrez, the brand, the boutique


What’s the multi-millionaire to do when collecting wines isn’t enough? Why, collect wineries of course. Bernard Magrez made a fortune with the sale of his Bordeaux négociant house, William Pitters, and now has assembled a portfolio of 37 “micro-cuvees.” They come mostly from Bordeaux and include such big guns as Chateau Pape Clement but also from places as far flung as Tunisia and Uruguay.

So for Bernard Magrez, the question becomes, what do you do when collecting wineries isn’t enough? Since collecting cars doesn’t always work (he had to return his Hummer when it didn’t fit in his driveway in Bordeaux), the answer for him is to open wine shops.

His new Paris shop opened in July and another for Bordeaux is slated for the fall. The shops sell only wines bearing the Magrez signature—and they do almost all have his name on the label. Although there are 37 wines, the brand is clearly Magrez. The unseen signature in the bottle, however, is Michel Rolland, the renowned and controversial “flying winemaker” known for favoring big reds.

I dropped by the handsome Paris boutique a few weeks ago. In the high-rent district a stone’s throw from the Opéra, the black exterior gives way to a mostly black interior complete with two chandeliers of black Baccarat crystal. Georges Bentet, the shop manager who has been a sommelier in both France and the US, greeted me and I asked him a bit about what’s going on. He offers hour-and-a-half classes on wine appreciation complete with tastings from about five Magrez offerings. How are they going? So far, no takers.

The friendly Georges says that the wines are, surprisingly, more expensive at the shop than in supermarkets. Wait–supermarkets?!? Yes, some of these wines indeed appear in supermarkets. But what the shop offers, he says, is depth and breadth of the Margrez line. Want an older vintage of Pape Clement? Or a large format Fombrauge? This is where you can find them.

If you can’t make it to this location, rumor has it that Magrez will be opening similar boutiques in other cities around the world.

Bernard Magrez, the boutique
36 rue St. Augustin, 75002 Paris
01.49.24.03.11

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The best laid plans

Succession planning is hard to do. Any charismatic figure wonders what will happen after the sun sets on his or her day. Some can’t work out what to do: Castro is leaning on his brother Raul–literally. And some don’t give a rip what comes next: Louis XV assumed the philosophy “apres moi le deluge.” From countries to corporations, replacing strong leaders can be a tough chore.

Robert Parker, the most powerful critic in the wine world, has been pulling back. He is approaching 60 and–come on–he can’t go on tasting 10,000 wines a year forever. As a result, he has pared back the regions that he reviews to his favorites, retaining Bordeaux, the Rhone, California, Australia and Spain for himself while parceling out other areas. Last year one commentator seized on this evidence and more to make the provocative case that Parker’s influence was on the decline.

But Parker’s succession plan just walked out the door: Pierre-Antoine Rovani is leaving. [eRP] Rovani writes:

The longstanding plan was that I was the “heir apparent,” a plan Bob offered to make official earlier this year with an extraordinarily generous offer, one I did not sign.

In short, I am leaving what most would consider the dream job. For the past decade I have been well paid to work with superb individuals for whom I have nothing but admiration, affection, and respect. My job was to taste wine and report my opinions. I was paid to taste something I love passionately and then give my opinion, nirvana for someone as opinionated as me! Lastly, my future at The Wine Advocate was bright.

He won’t say exactly what he will be doing but the solitary life of the critic led him and perhaps “I missed my constant contact with people and the adrenaline rush of making ‘the deal.'” Hmm, maybe Bob’s offer wasn’t so generous after all? Or maybe he had tasted one too many hedonistic fruit bombs.

Parker plucked Rovani from the aisles of Macarthur’s in Washington DC to become his associate in 1996. Rovani later came to review many regions including Burgundy, Oregon, Washington, the Loire, the south of France, and Latin America among others. Parker later hired other regional specialists David Schildknecht for Teutonic wines and Daniel Thomases for some Italian wines. The Wine Advocate, Parker’s publication for the past 30 years, assumed more of the look of a collaborative endeavor.

Giving a sense of an end of an era and a plan succession plan gone wrong, Daniel Thomases will also be leaving according to Howard Goldberg, writing on Decanter.com. The article states that Parker will announce the replacement of two tasters soon.

But will the scores be the same? Consistency is the key for the 100 point numerical rating system that Parker developed. Given his disdain for tasting notes by committee (“the most insipid and often the most misleading”) how can readers of the Wine Advocate be assured that the next reviewer of Burgundy will have the same palate and thus provide consistency in scoring? Difficult issues for the man in Monkton, MD to confront. It will be very tough to pick the right person with enough credibility and independence to fill the void. It will spell the difference for the Parker empire between a dynasty and a deluge.

UPDATE: speculation is running rampant on the Robert Parker bulletin boards. Many are advocating the most frequent participants there; others suggest English critics; and some dare to state that the bottom-up board itself will replace the top-down critic.

Foie gras, arrest thy neighbor

Chicago’s ban on foie gras sales in stores and restaurants went into effect yesterday. On Monday, 676 Restaurant and Bar at the Omni Chicago had an “outlaw dinner,” which included foie gras along with absinthe and hemp seeds, and duck breast sous-vide, a preparation that is currently experiencing a moratorium in NYC. Apparently at least one restaurant in bordering Oak Park is offering a foie gras getaway dinner.

But is the ban really going into effect? Three items for your consideration:

1) Allen Sternweiler of Allen’s The New American Café will file suit against the ban.

2) Didier Durand of Cyrano’s will practice civil disobedience by giving away the foie gras for free and then charging for the garnishes and wine that go with it.

3) The enforcement mechanism of the ban is citizen’s arrest!! “Alderman Moore says the mayor’s office will decide how this law is ultimately enforced, and they will likely rely on citizen complaints.” [CBS2chicago]

Related:
I suppressed my gag reflex and visited a foie gras goose farm

America’s greatest security threat?


Tired of the TSA keeping you from your wine? Don’t chug, sip in style (and silence) with the beer belly! Solve your problems of liquid deprivation on flights AND transporting that cult cab back from Napa all in one.

Caution, use of the beer belly runs the risk of a frisk (or worse). Nor is it recommended as a decanter.

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Reader mailbag: chill out

Salil in Singapore: Was just wondering about whether it’s OK to keep a bottle of white wine in a freezer for a short period of time (e.g., 10-15 minutes). We’re quite fond of having a lot of our white wines very cold (particularly in the tropical summer heat in Singapore).

HG in Moscow: how long can/should you keep a white wine in the fridge?

* * *

Purists would probably say that wine should slowly be brought down to cellar temperature. Although they’re right, it’s not always practical.

Around the Dr. Vino world headquarters, when the summer heat is on and no bottle is sufficiently cold, we often use a gel sleeve from the freezer. But the tried and true method from the restaurant trade is a bucket of ice, water and a fistful of salt (don’t ask me why the salt). That will chill a bottle in 10 minutes. The freezer works but it’s just air surrounding the bottle and water actually wicks the heat out of the bottle’s core faster.

How long should that sauvignon blanc be rolling around on the bottom shelf of the fridge? Well, hopefully not too long. Ideally, try to stick it in the fridge 60-90 mins before serving. The trouble with leaving the bottle in there for days on end is that it is then served too cold. The average fridge is 38 degrees (3 deg C) but serving a white wine at those temperatures can really mute the aromas–those purists with their cellars really have the ideal temperature (55 F; 13 C). If it’s just been a day then you can uncork, pour, wait a few minutes and the wine will warm up sufficiently. But if it’s been in the fridge for a month, it might have lost something. Try the ice water and salt trick instead.

One last note on chilling wines is that it’s not for whites alone. I mentioned chilling a syrah recently and that made it a better summer red. Similarly, cru Beaujolais or other light reds can make for chilled summer refreshment.

Got a question? Send it in!

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Tasting sized pours

The National Highway Safety Administration launches a new marketing campaign against drunken driving. Will it crimp wine sales the way a similar campaign has in France? [NYT]

Speaking of Washington (were we?), blogger Winesmith has contacted all the candidates for DC mayor and posts their wine preferences. The leading candidate likes Australian (!) Shiraz (!!) under $10 (!!!). He also gets the faves for DC’s non-voting Rep. Eleanor Holmes Norton and her recent interviewer, Stephen Colbert. [winesmith]

In New York City, Eater blogs about the closing-before-opening of Liquor Store Bar in Tribeca as a latest chapter in what they call “the drying of NYC.” [Eater]

You can’t say Mosel-Saar-Ruwer? Don’t worry, it’s being shortened to Mosel. [Decanter]

Steve De Long has thrown up an interactive map of Lonon wine shops–check it out before your next trip and find some wines to drink there since you can’t bring them back (in your carry-on). [De Long]

The Guardian says that wine producers play a mark em up just to mark it down game in the UK. [Guardian]

And finally, next summer will see the release of Ratatouille, a Pixar movie about an epicurean rat who lives in the sewers of Paris. [movie trailer]

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