Dr Vino's wine blog

The WSJ has a story today on the rise of Indian wine, a subject I touched on a couple of months ago. This story reveals that the growers at 20 degrees latitude have to flip the seasons, pruning the vines into dormancy during the monsoon months and then growing the grapes in the more mild, non-monsoon months. [WSJ $]

And last Friday the WSJ couple, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wrote their first ever column on organic wines–and liked them! “Too many wines these days taste like they were made in a lab,” they wrote. “These, generally, did not.” (WSJ via PPG)

Russia’s ban on Georgian wine will cost Georgia the equivalent of 1 percent of GDP according to the IMF. A senior Russian official is now courting Bulgaria to fill the void. Whoa, power politics through the wine bottle! [Mosnews, RIA Novosti]

Yesterday was the one year anniversary of the Supreme Court’s decision on direct shipping. The Sonoma Press Democrat reports that while some producers have enjoyed the change, others have found it a mixed bag as they have become mired in the varying state rules and fees. [Sonoma Press Democrat]

Sam’s Wine in Chicago resolved a 17 month legal dispute by promising to pay a $300,000 fine, close for three days (Jan 1 – 3), and empty its warehouse of alcoholic beverages. [Chicago Tribune]

tags: wine | wine news | wine politics

Richard Parsons takes the Time Warner corporate jet to his 20-acre winery in Montalcino the NYT reveals in a story on executives hijacking the corporate jet for personal use. But just which winery is it? The media baron owns the Brunello Il Palazzone. The winery web site assures us that he is “personally present at harvest time and all other key moments of the wines [sic] development.” Now we know how he gets there…(NYT)

The privately held E&J Gallo, second largest wine producer in the world with an estimated 75 million cases sold last year and 4,600 employees in 90 countries, rebrands as “Gallo Family Vineyards.” Um, OK!

Nicholas Lander has a good review of the four-hour James Beard award ceremony in New York. [FT]

Time Out New York reviews a dozen destinations for gourmets this summer. While wasting two-thirds of the page (including photo) on the always overcrowded Taste of Chicago, the brief piece finally gets around to mentioning Moto and Alinea–but not for why they are important to New Yorkers. These are the places where New Yorkers can try sous-vide cooking, currently undergoing a de facto ban in NYC. Conversely, Chicagoans can travel to NYC to try fois gras, now outlawed in Chicago! Reciprocal gastro tourism!

tags: wine | wine news

Wine, it’s all about the provenance. Or at least Diageo thinks so. The FT reports today that Diageo (NYSE: DEO) has filed a formal objection to Oregon winemaker Tim Ramey’s application to trademark the term “Belle Provenance Vineyard” calling it “confusingly similar” to their own “Provenance” brand. “There isn’Â’t a wine lover on earth that would think anyone could claim exclusivity for the word ‘‘provenance’Â’ any more than they could for words like ‘vintage’Â’ or ‘‘vineyard,'” he says. “We will fight Diageo to protect our name.” Hmm, it does seem a little ironic that the provenance of a Napa Cab could be confused with Oregon Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.
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Do you ever crave exotic indigenous grape varieties in a world of similar tasting wines? Such a craving sent Bruce Schoenfeld to Hungary to explore the local wines:

Weeks later, when I think back on my visit to Lake Balaton, these are the wines I will remember. A transcendent Juhfark, bold and peppery. A Budai Zöld with the bite of a Granny Smith apple. A sharply acidic Furmint from 1995…

Wine’s next frontier, an excellent piece, highly recommended!
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Robert Parker has weighed in on the 2005 Bordeaux vintage and he can hardly control his “jubulation/excitement.” He awards 100 point scores to Haut-Brion, Margaux and Latour, Pavie, Petrus, Ausone, Pavie Decesse and Pape Clement. Mouton and Lafite rolled in with scores of 96…Consulting wine maker Stephane Derenoncourt will get to bask in the limelight usually reserved exclusively for the wines of Michel Rolland since Derenoncourt’s Larcisse Ducasse received 95-98 points, “one of the monuments of the vintage.” [Decanter]
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The NYT obituary of witty wine writer Alex Bespaloff contained this mention of his hilarious outgoing voicemail message: “I cannot take your call right now, but if it’s an emergency, white with fish and red with meat.”

tags: wine | wine travel | USPTO | wine news

Opinions on the 2005 Bordeaux vintage are starting to roll in…Jancis Robinson gives it a thumbs up, writing “there are more very good to great wines than I can remember in any other vintage.” James Suckling got in early this year with his opinion saying the wines of the vintage represented “some of the best I have tasted in my career…” Robert Parker’s comments will come in the next couple of weeks…Now consumers await the prices from the chateaus, which will undoubtedly be as high as–or higher than–the praise.

After being spurned last year, the acquisitive Constellation has finally been successful in its attempt to take over Vincor, Canada’s largest producer. Vincor’s management spent months battling a $33 a share takeover attempt but now has acquiesced to this offer at $36.50 valuing the company at C$1.5bln. What I’m wondering is when Constellation will make a bid for a producer in Argentina?

Russia has banned the import of wines from Georgia and Moldova citing pesticide use. Some call it “pure politics” with Putin punishing the two republics for pro-Western stands. Georgia has grappled with rampant fraud in Georgia (that I mentioned in October “Georgia on my mind“) so this latest blow will no doubt send the industry reeling.

“If I were your accountant, I would have to advise against investing in a restaurant,” Charles Grodin’s character quipped to Robert DeNiro’s in the 1988 movie Midnight Run (ironically De Niro has invested in many restaurants quite successfully through the Myriad Group). Paul Sullivan writes in Saturday’s Financial Times that “If you can stand the heat, buy the kitchen” when it comes to investing in a restaurant.

If you thought Thomas Jefferson was the most wine friendly of America’s founders, you’d be right. New evidence has revealed, however, that George Washington ordered a “box” of Muscat and claret while he was president. Only catch: he also ordered a keg of brandy and after leaving the presidency, he built one of the largest distilleries in Virginia. That ardent spirit…[MSNBC]

I’m not the only blogger on the move. The indefatigable Beau Jarvis at Basic Juice will be heading to Austria for a month in May. Alder Yarrow at Vinography just spent time poking around Mendoza too and has posted some of his thoughts and tasting notes. Taj continues her travels thorough America’s Western wine country and interviews many quirky producers, such as Casa Nuestra in Napa. Lenn Thompson won’t be traveling–he’ll be bringing the wines to him in his “50 wines 50 states 50 weeks” challenge on the group blog Wine Sediments. Whoa, I wonder what he’ll write up from Alaska?!?

tags: wine | wine news | Bordeaux 2005 | wine blogs | wine travel

Trader Joe’s grocery store opens in New York City today! The address of the wine store, not yet open, 138 E. 14th Street (it won’t stock any beer). I’ve added it to my map of NYC wine shops.

Wine domain names (internet domains that is) shoot up in value… [Decanter]

…while French wine estates (brick and mortar) in Languedoc decline [IHT]

But why even bother with a winery? Not a problem for a new wave of wine makers [Bloomberg]

Wine for the jet set? Airport wine bars on the rise [Upgrade]

Jon Bonne muddles through red Burgundies from the 2003 heat wave. I also like his top pick, the Tollot-Beaut 2003 Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru ““Les Vercots” (find this wine, about $43, imported by Diageo Chateau & Estate) [MSNBC]

Wine Sediments, a group blog, emerged from the fermentation tanks last week. Mark Fisher leads five “sedimentarians” with fresh, daily posts [Wine Sediments]

And a hilarious, totally non-wine photo journal of how to maximize your ROI at the Pizza Hut salad bar [link]

tags: wine | wine news

Shipping wine to Florida has been classified as a felony (yes, really). But that is about to change. On Thursday, the second largest wine market in the country opened up for wine shipments directly from wineries. As Florida cracks open, the biggest wine distributor, Southern Wine and Spirits, announced their entry into Mississippi, another protected market since the state prohibits direct shipping. (Thanks, Jon)

Arizona might be the next state to open up.

Constellation Brands, the biggest wine producer with brands such as Woodbridge and Almaden, has issued stock options amounting to 2% of shares outstanding–and simultaneously announced a share buyback of $100 million. Cui bono?

Diageo’s profits were up 21% in the last quarter as beer sales growth outstripped wine in North America–while the Irish are drinking less Guinness.

To sell more French wine, maybe shops need to play more accordion music?

tags: wine | wine news

I asked Pat to send us a couple of days from her calendar so here are two days in her life as proprietor of Big Nose, Full Body.

TUESDAY
7:00am Clock radio tuned to NPR…
7-7:30 Check email and answer messages
7:30-8:15 Walk dog
8:15-10:00 Breakfast, read NY Times
10:00-11:00 Pay wine invoices, other bills
11:00 Walk dog
11:15 Walk to garage and drive to BNFB in Brooklyn
12:00 Open the store
12:00 – 1:30 assist customers, receive two wine deliveries, log wines into inventory
1:30 Larry arrives (assistant manager)
2:00 – 2:30 Distributor wine tasting… representative visits store with 7 wines from Italy.
2:30-3:00 Lunch at counter in store
3:00 – 4:30 assist customers, receive 2 more wine deliveries
4:30-5 Distributor wine tasting…rep with 5 wines
5:00-9:00 Assist customers, reorganize shelves.
9:00-9:30… Close register and store
9:30-10:15…drive home to Manhattan
10:15… walk dog
10:30… have dinner in front of TV
11:00 go to bed

communting here from Manhattan

WEDNESDAY
7:00am – clock radio tuned to NPR
7-7:30 Check email and answer messages
7:30-8:30 Walk dog; have breakfast at coffee shop with sidewalk tables.
8:30- 9:00 Pay wine invoices
9-11:00 Work on wine article
11:00-11:30 Walk dog
11:30-1:30…Attend wine tasting at restaurant in Tribeca. Wines from Germany and Austria. Have cheese and bread for lunch.
1:30-2:00… drive to store where Adam has opened and received 2 wine deliveries
2:00-3:30 .. assist customers, receive 3 wine deliveries and enter wines into inventory
3:30-4…Distributor tasting in store…rep brings 5 wines.
4:00-9:00 – assist customers
9-9:30 Close register and store
9:30-10:15…drive home
10:15-11… walk dog. Stop for mexican food and margarita at sidewalk cafe.
11:00 go to bed and read wine magazine

Fresh, crisp white
Clos Roche Blanche, Sauvignon blanc, AOC Touraine, 2003, $9.99. Find this wine
If you have ever wondered what a “handcrafted” wine were like, you need look no farther than this wine. Beyond simply organic, which the proprietors have had their wines certified since 1995, the wine is manipulated almost exclusively by gravity from maceration to its unfiltered bottling (by hand). This minimal intervention assures a pure expression of the chalky soils, which follows through on the palate with a flinty minerality as well as crisp acidity and hints of gooseberry. Light and unpretentious like the appellation, the wine is better than your average summer quaffer. And it is a good way to end Le Tour (de France) this week since it hails from the city of Tours! Louis/Dressner imports.

Dry, refreshing rosé
Domaine de Saint Antoine, rosé, Costieres de Nimes, 2003. $8. Find this wine
As the Tour de France closes in on the Nimes area this week it is a great chance to highlight this dark-hued rosé. One of several good value dry rosés from the region, it has notes of wild strawberries that practically leap from the glass. Stick this one in your picnic basket this summer-or drink this pink while cheering Lance on to the Yellow Jersey. Imported by Robert Kacher.

Medium-bodied reds
Castaño, Monastrell 2003, $6.99. Find this wine
It is a sign of the times that this is the recommended wine from Castano, a reliable family-owned producer from the remote D.O. Yecla. In previous years, their old vine Solanera has been under $10 but with the rise of the euro we now have the straight Monastrell (aka Mouvedre) in that price category. But we should be easily consoled since it such a great value. The opaque, dark ruby wine in the glass immediately signals seriousness while the big aromas of dark berries and gentle spice make it a leading contender for the title of House Red. Eric Solomon, importer.

Castelmaure, “Tryptic” AOC Corbieres, 2001. $7.49. Find this wine
Perched in a high valley, just a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean, this cooperative winery is a great place to get the rustic authenticity that the Corbieres can make so effortlessly and cheaply. Better than many of its peers from the region, this medium-bodied blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache (20-40-40) has rounded, earthy notes full of red berry and some spice all of which makes it an excellent accompaniment to grilled food (try it with chiles rellenos stuffed with gorgonzola). A great way to escape inflationary pressures of imported wines. Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils.

I Portali (red), Basilium W, Aglianico del Vulture DOC, 2002. $9.99. Find this wine
Budget-minded enthusiasts who turn to this wine from the southern Italian region of Aglianico del Vulture will be amply rewarded. The Aglianico grape that comprises 100% of the wine may be unknown in the US but has been in the region for 3500 years (and is very timely given the Athens Olympics since Aglianico means Hellenic, referring to the probable origins of the varietal). A dark reddish-purple in color, this full-bodied bodied wine has a silky smooth character that comes from the hand-harvesting and selection of the grapes as well as 14 months in oak. It is an excellent compliment to hard or aged cheese, such as pecorino, or grilled meats. Importer Gregory Smolik deserves recognition for providing such an informative back label–others should follow. Join the “vulture culture”!

Chateau Guiot, Costieres de Nimes, rosé, 2003. $9. Find this wine
The Costieres de Nimes region has produced many excellent values as readers of these pages know. Mas de Guiot had an excellent red in 2001. And — wow! — this rosé from the same producer (confusingly known as Chateau in this bottling) is excellent stuff. Not overly tart as are many rosés and a more reddish hue of pink, this wine is a full and rounded accompaniment to a wide variety of foods, especially when consumed al fresco. And it is not at all sweet. Robert Kacher, importer.

Red Truck, red table wine, California, 2002. $9.99. Find this wine Is this another gimmicky wine name (as with the many animal names on labels) that is worth a laugh but not a buy? In fact, Red Truck not only has potentially the most eye-catching label of the year but is worth taking for more than a metaphorical test-drive. And without a grape variety on the label, it is worth checking under the hood to find that this wine has a blend of Mourvedre and Syrah as well as some Merlot and Pinot Noir. Sourced from several vineyards in Contra Costa County owned by Cline Cellars, the producer, the wine in the glass has tons of red fruit aromas and flavors, a short-ish finish, but enough character to makes it a good accompaniment for the barbeque. With oil prices so high, reach for this red truck instead of the one in the garage.

Domaine D’Andezon, Cotes du Rhone, 2001, $9.49. Find this wine
Why is Syrah fast becoming the world’s most popular red grape? One sip of the wine will let you know. Unlike most Cotes du Rhones that blend Grenache and Syrah, this Domaine D’Andezon is pure Syrah, from about 50 year old vines, bottled unfiltered. In a blind tasting it could easily be mistaken for an Aussie Shiraz with its very lively nose of dark fruits including plums and
berries, but the good acidity indicates a cooler growing climate and gives it an excellent concentration. Very food friendly. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars.

Gerard Bertrand, Les Cailloutis, AOC Corbières, 1999. $9. Find this wine
A red blend from the Corbieres appellation of Languedoc might look enticing but leave you wondering: just which grapes varietals are in the wine? Well, thanks to an informative back label, the consumer knows with precision what makes up this yummy wine from Gerard Bertrand (Carignan, 40%; Syrah, 20%; Grenache 30%; Mourvedre, 10%). With an inky-purple color and a solid mid-palate, this earthy wine with notes of dark berry is ready to drink now and goes great with a pizza. Importer: VinDivino.

Big Red
Chateau La Sentinelle, AOC Cotes de Castillon, 2000. $9.99 Find this wine
Bordeaux is often considered to be either the world’s premier address for quality wine or a place of uninspiring bulk wine. But there is a third, often neglected, category of producers in far-flung appellations who are making interesting wines at a fraction of the price of the top chateaux. Such is the case in the Cotes de Castillon, which lies beyond celebrated St. Emilion. This Chateaux La Sentinelle has an inky-purple color with the classic Bordeaux terroir on the nose of this mostly merlot blend. And at $10, this is a Bordeaux 2000 for everyday consumption!! Importer: Wine Vine.