A border runs through it: Weingut Becker, Pfalz and Alsace
Some globe-trotting winemakers travel between countries by private jet. Friedrich Wilhelm Becker travels by car. But he could even go by bike.
Although his vineyards span two countries, Germany and France, they are really only one kilometer apart. Friedrich, known as Fritz, told me yesterday that the vineyards have been in his family for six generations. During that time, the border has, ahem, changed several times and 1945 left them straddling two sovereign nation states. Today, about two-thirds of Becker’s 35 acres of vineyards are in Alsace with the remainder, as well as, the winery lying in Pfalz, specifically the town of Schweigen. (This area is north of Strasbourg while most of the Alsatian winegrowing happens south of Strasbourg.)
Today, in an integrated Europe, the border doesn’t really mean much. Fritz can dart between them with ease: “you don’t even notice it” he told me. But he said that for his father it was more of a hassle several decades ago when he would have to show his passport to cross the border each time he wanted to go check sugar levels in the grapes. The French border guards didn’t always make it easy, he said, since they often weren’t from the liminal zone that is the Rhine region and resented Germans still having holdings on the French side.
But is the Becker wine “German” if it is technically grown in France? Yes, Fritz said, thanks to a 1955 accord that grants them and five other vineyards that right. In exchange, the French got water rights to the springs of Schweigen and some lumber rights from the local forest. A deal that turned water into wine; I like.
So what about the wines? Like the odd political situation of the vineyards, the main grape variety is also something of a curiosity: pinot noir or, as it is known locally, Spätburgunder. But it is expertly done in the hands of the young Friedrich Wilhelm who makes the wines today, building on the strong reputation that his father, also Friedrich, established over the last four decades.
The 2007 estate pinot noir (about $19; find this wine) is a superb value with lovely balance between gentle tart, red fruits, acidity and some minerally character. It’s made in traditional 2,400 liter (i.e. big) wood casks and is 12.5% alcohol. Pair with, well, practically anything!
The 2006 pinot noir “Kammerberg” Grosses Gewächs (like a grand cru; find this wine) is a tremendous pinot noir, from 55 year-old vines, that is really layered and interesting with a long finish. Speaking of crossing the border, I would love to taste this wine blind against some wines from Chambolle-Musigny.
www.friedrichbecker.de
Rudi Wiest, the importer
On March 19th, 2009 at 8:51 am ,S Bitterolf wrote:
Great post. “Fritz” Becker is an awesome guy and he is without a doubt making some of the greatest Pinot Noirs in Germany. I don’t know that anyone else that makes a Spätburgunder as elegant, finely knit and integrated. After tasting the Estate I have to agree with you that it’s a jamming little wine and a great value – I’ll be buying it for the store. The “Kammerberg,” while hardly such a value, is a stunning wine and I did indeed sneak a bottle of this (blind) into a tasting of Dujac (Bonnes-Mares, Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Denis) and Vogüé (1er, Bonnes-Mares and Musigny) just this weekend and the Becker held its own. I think it was agreed upon that the Becker was most likely Chambolle… so there you go!
On March 19th, 2009 at 5:19 pm ,Chris Jessen wrote:
You couldn´t be more right !! Amongst Meyer-Näckel, Fürst, Johner and a handful of other german Winemakers – Becker is the shooting star.
The vast majority of pinot noir producers of Germany have a different approach however. Many do not have a chalk-dominated soil. Their attempts are none-the-less a revelation … try them if you have a chance – If you need addresses let me know – I´d be glad to help !
On March 20th, 2009 at 12:53 am ,Lyle Fass wrote:
The wines are great. JUst had a 2007 Riesling Laisser Faire which is his spontaneous yeast fermentation Riesling and it was stunning and really only opened up on the third day, The Spats are good but this Riesling is the best value in the entire portfolio.
On March 20th, 2009 at 1:14 pm ,Dylan wrote:
What an interesting geographical location. It’s great to see that his father never lost heart even through more trying times and the tradition carries on with himself.
On March 20th, 2009 at 1:55 pm ,Dr. Vino wrote:
Stephen – sounds great! Wish I had been there.
Chris and Lyle – yes, good stuff, but can be frustratingly expensive. Great to know about the Rieslings, Lyle, which I didn’t try. Love the name, Laisser Faire!
On May 1st, 2009 at 12:45 am ,BerlinKitchen wrote:
Stephen,
we tasted last week together 07/08 Spätburgunder from Keller based on Barrel-samples. Do you think Keller wines are on the same level of Becker “Pinot Noir”?
Take care,
Martin
On May 1st, 2009 at 12:50 am ,BerlinKitchen wrote:
Here is a Podcast in german with Fritz Becker.
http://berlinkitchen.com/berlinkitchen/Podcast/Entries/2007/8/31_F._Becker_Pfalz_-_Spätburgunder.html
Cheers,
Martin
On May 3rd, 2009 at 7:51 am ,SBitterolf wrote:
Martin,
Great meeting you at Keller’s… As for Keller vs. Becker, honestly I haven’t had enough Keller Spatburgunder to comment intelligently… Just a single bottle of 05 Burgel and then the 07/08 barrel samples. Though I’d admit I was very impressed by the 07/08s… Interestingly, I visited Becker on Thursday in Schweigen and we had a long conversation about German Spatburgunder (the visit was well over 4 hrs long!) and apropos of nothing, he mentioned Klaus-Peter as one of his favorites…