Quoi de neuf?
“Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrive” signs around the world proclaimed yesterday. Or did they? Crates of wine from the 2005 vintage were sent by air to New York, Tokyo and beyond and greeted with new marketing on the ground. I dropped by Burgundy Wine Co. in Chelsea last evening where one of the staff proclaimed this year “a cotton candy year” (rather than the traditional “banana”). I went to the shop because I had read online that there would be an expert pouring there who was “licensed to chill” (groan). Indeed, she was there and so was a bathtub of nouveau.
The wine is not the only thing nouveau about this year since the promotion has received a fresh infusion of cash from the EU and other sources. The new marketing is groan-inducingly bad. “It’s Beaujolais nouveau time,” runs the promotion campaign, which no doubt thrills people in Milwaukee (remember, wine is actually more popular than beer right now so best to avoid beer references). What will it be next year, Got Beaujolais?
All in all, the Beaujolais Nouveau phenomenon is a double-edged sword. Yes, it gets young, fruity wine flown around the world. But it also drives consumers to expect that all Beaujolais is fruit forward and should be consumed right away. That’s a pity since there are some nicer, older crus available. Aha, maybe THAT marketing campaign for Beaujolais will be “Get cru-ed in!” Argh. More groans. I’d better stop or they might hire me!
Technorati tags: food & drink | beaujolais nouveau | wine
On November 18th, 2005 at 1:36 pm ,Anonymous wrote:
Today I tried this year’s Beaujolais nouveau at lunch today in a small brasserie in La Muette, Paris. My fellow diner and I were distinctly underwhelmed!
Terry
On November 18th, 2005 at 1:54 pm ,Anonymous wrote:
I had the nouveau last evening and although I do not feel cheated by the hype it is really no more or less than I expected.
Drink it’s cheap.
FRank
On November 18th, 2005 at 2:54 pm ,Mike Baker - Chicago wrote:
We tasted 4 of the Nouveau yesterday- Duboeuf, Antonin-Rodet, Depeuble and Manoir du Carra- Something very strange has happened here. Its as if all producers have agreed to shift the style/vinification methods of the wine. Instead of the pinkish red with slight purple hues, we now find very concentrated purple colors. Instead of light concentration with low intensity and medium translusence, the wines are almost opaque with higher intensity. On the nose, with the exception of Duboeuf, the banana/yeast element is all but gone. It has been replaced by sweet, juicy “concentrate” fruit. On the palate the wines are soft and sweet and rather tasty. In fact, the Nouveau of 2005 are the best they have ever been –
What is going on? Most likely, the vintners have added some sort of grape concentrate, or they are using a ‘backing-out’ process where by alcohol or water is removed. This is not unusual technology – it is practiced all over the world, even in the sacred cellars of Burgundy. The process is considered taboo by many, mainly because it strips away character, leaving behind very drinkable, soft wines that put a smile on the face of most wine drinkers. This is another point entirely. What I find so interesting here is how all of the Nouveau producers seem to have adopted this technique together – was there a conference held? By the way, when tasting thru these wines, I couldn’t help think about the plethora of “New Spanish” wines on the market now, mainly from unsung regions- these are wines that have been crafted by American importers, either as a special label for the importer, or a modernized label from a traditional house. Sneak your Nouveau into a blind tasting this year alongside Vina Alarba ($6 – 90 Points Parker) or Panarroz ($8 – 90 Points Parker)
On November 18th, 2005 at 3:22 pm ,Dr. Vino wrote:
Hmm, interesting. Thanks Mike for your thoughts and analysis. If they are watering back that would be a revoluion indeed. But do they need to? It wasn’t that hot in Beaujolais (unlike Spain) this summer. Cheers.
On November 18th, 2005 at 5:17 pm ,mike baker wrote:
Dr. Vino-
great blog! It’s probably not watered back- most likely it is some sort of concentrate added – I’m hardly an expert on winemaking tricks- I do know that concentrate is used in the world of wine and that 2005 Nouveau has an entirely different identity, seemingly across the board, the end result of which are wines that resemble new and old world tricked-out juice.