Dr Vino's wine blog

What happens when a reviewer tastes a good bottle, but some consumers buy what appears to be a completely different product? Think it couldn’t happen? Guess again and behold the saga of Sierra Carche 2005.

Last fall, Wine Library, the Springfield, New Jersey wine retailer, sent out an email offering for a wine that seemed to be the wine lover’s dream: a fantastic quality-to-price ratio. The wine on offer was the Sierra Carche 2005, a blend of Monastrell with Petit Verdot and Malbec from the off-the beaten path Spanish region of Jumilla. Jay Miller, a critic at the Wine Advocate, described it as “Inky purple, the wine offers an array of scents which jump from the glass… structured wine with gobs of flavor, terrific intensity… It will provide pleasure through 2025.” He awarded it 96 points. The suggested retail price was $40; Wine Library was offering it for $29.99. Robert Kenney, a New Jersey wine consumer, was so enthusiastic upon seeing the email that he ordered several six packs.

But Kenney’s euphoria turned sour as soon as he pulled a cork. He later wrote on the forums at erobertparker.com that “I have consumed 6 bottles already, praying that with each popped cork, a different genie will emerge…so far, no such luck…slapping 80 points on those bottles is generous.”

Kenney describes himself as an “unabashed fan of DrBigJ,” as Miller is known. But Kenney was so disappointed with the wine that he corresponded with Miller and FedExed Miller one of his bottles last fall for him to taste and “see if indeed it was indicative of the wine that he had tasted and scored highly.” Kenney wrote last week that “During a ten month period I had exchanged seven emails with DrBigJ, reminding/imploring him to taste the sent bottle…to no avail.”

Then a consumer in Pittsburgh, Bob Hudak, posted that he had found the wine for $38 at the PLCB, the state-run store in Pennsylvania. On July 5, Hudak wrote of his experience, “Considering that it was a Dr Big Jay 96 pointer in the WA, I figured I buy 6 bottles. I opened my first one this weekend. Big mistake. The wine had virtually no aroma at all. You couldn’t smell a darn thing. With time and air, some stinky aromas that were off-putting became noticeable.”

Kenney chimed in on the thread as did several other consumers with their negative experiences with the wine. (The wine’s scores on cellartracker.com were not all bad although several reviewers took the time to note flawed bottles and one gave it a 74 but the modal score was around 90.)

On July 14, Miller posted to the forum that he finally opened the bottle Kenney had sent him and declared it “undrinkable.” Miller contacted the importer of the wine, Mark Clinard of Well Oiled Wine Co., who replied, “We have had similar problems with this wine and had a meeting in March with the winery to find out what the problem is. There was clearly some substandard product shipped by the winery and we have had to take back a large chunk of this wine from the market because it was rejected by the trade. I apologize on behalf of the winery for this apparent bait and switch. Going forward we are searching for a different winery for this brand.” He posted his cell phone number and asked that those consumers with problems contact him.

Brandon Warnke, Vice President of Operations at Wine Library, posted that anyone who bought the wine through the store could return it to them for a full refund.

Jay Miller then wrote: “this is about the worst thing that can happen to a critic, to be tasted on a fraudulent wine, publish a note, and then have readers spend their good money on a fairly pricey wine only to find out that it’s plonk or worse. Its reminiscent of the furor over Las Rocas a few years ago that nearly killed that brand. It’s a bad situation all around.” Read more…

Lucarelli, Primitivo 2004 from Puglia. $6.97 find this wine
In the heel of the boot that is the Italian peninsula, the hot plains of Puglia have typically produced prodigious quantities of wine. Quality is creeping in now as the effects of the world wide glut are being felt. This Lucarelli Primitivo is an intersection of the two themes: good quality at a low price. These 60 year old vines yield primitivo, a grape that is a relative of zinfandel. The resulting wine is a real crowd pleaser with round fruit followed by persistent, faintly spicy finish. It’s light enough to try with pasta, but would love some grilled meat. What are you waiting for? Start searching for this value vino!

Texier, Cotes du Rhone, 2004. $10 find this wine
I pulled out this wine as a “third bottle” one evening because I expected it to be big. But it was lean. And very food friendly. I poked around the web and found this comment from the importer: “Eric Texier and his wife, Laurence, studied nuclear science in France and in Illinois.” oops, that wasn’t the important part. Take 2: “He vinifies all of his Rhones as if they were Burgundies. His touch is therefore light, and involving cold maceration of all reds…and the gentlest, non-filtered, gravity powered bottling possible.” Aha! Well, it certainly is an unusual CDR, but good nonetheless–and Texier is tres sexier at $9.99! Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Evesham Wood, Blanc du Puits Sec, Eola Hills, 2005. $13 find this wine
While I was in Oregon recently, I tried this excellent organic pinot gris. Russ Raney adds depth to the wine by blending in 15 percent gewürztraminer, which makes it a terrific aperitif wine. It has the floral notes of pinot gris with a hint of the lusciousness of gewurtz all with minerality and refreshing acidity—I’d like to taste it blind against some Alsatian whites, or forget that, with some seafood! The only bad news is the limited availability of the wine. But based on this taste, I’d be very willing to cobble together an order of his very reasonably priced wines from Russ at the winery directly. eveshamwood.com (503) 371-8478

Chateau Turcaud, Entre-Deux-Mers, white 2005. $11 find this wine
The Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux is a misnomer. It’s not between two seas, as the name states, but between two rivers. This wedge of flat land between the Garonne and the Dordogne Rivers used to produce a lot of boring wines but the economic crisis in the area is starting to invigorate the area as a whole. This dry white, a blend of sauvignon blanc (50%), semillon (45), and muscadelle (5) is great value vino from Bordeaux. Luscious notes of pineapple layer on top of crisp acidity giving the wine a great mouthfeel. It’s an excellent companion to potato-leek soup. Mmm, fall is here. Consider this a wine for between two seasons, not seas.
Importer: Fleet Street Wine Merchants

Zero manipulation, Peterson winery, California, 2003. $12 find this wine
I love the text on this label: 78% Mendocino County carignane, 14% Sonoma syrah, 8% Sonoma mourvedre. They even stick the vineyards on there too but I won’t bore you those. The point is, information! Love it! In the glass, it is a red, light color but not lacking in aromas of garrigue, leather and spice. It has good balance on the palate and is a very food friendly red for the fall. And zero manipulation, who can be against that?

Powers,
cabernet sauvignon, Washington State, 2002. $11 find this wine
If some entry level cabernets have too much raw tannin, then, ironically, this wine called Powers is a way to throttle back. A blend of cab from four vineyards in Washington State, the wine maker also added a gob of syrah and a blob of merlot from organically farmed vineyards. With a little age on it now, the resulting blend is smooth yet substantial and a good match for the beefy side of this fall’s dishes.

Vinho Verde, Fâmega, NV $4.49 find this wine
I have always thought of vinho verde as something of a wine curiosity since it’s neither green as the name would imply nor a still wine because of slight effervescence. Heck, it’s hardly even a wine by today’s standards since it has only 9 percent alcohol! But after years of scoffing at vinho verde I tried this one—not of my own free will, of course, but it mysteriously ended up in a case of wine that I ordered on line. I’m glad it did. It is a fantastically easy drinking aperitif wine with a sort of bluish hue, bubbles, and good acidity. With the low price and low alcohol, you could really put some of this away. And at under $50 a case—too bad summer is almost over! Importer: Admiral Wine Imports, Cedar Grove NJ.

Lafazinis, St. George, Pelopennese, 2004. $10 Find this wine
Greek wines have come a long way. This light summer quaffer hails from the blazing sun of the Pelopennese. Made from the Agiorgitiko grape (chalk up another one for the wine century) with no oak, the light bright red fruit shines through followed by a slightly tannic finish. Try chilled with anything you’re eating al fresco. Importer: Sotiris Bafitis.

Los Planos, Syrah, D.O. Carinena, 2003 $8 Find this wine
These planes of Spain may become known mostly for their syrah. This 6,000 case offering from the team behind the old-vine grenache of Las Rocas, has a similar unctuous, big style. Leather and dried herbs on the nose and blackberries on the palate, this syrah is going to be a huge crowd pleaser-and at this price, you can afford to pour it for a crowd. To make it fit better with the summer weather, try and chill it a few minutes before pulling the meat off the grill. Importer: Eric Solomon.

This list is updated weekly.
See the previous complete list of ten wines under $10.

Wines over $12 that are still good values:
Il Corzanello, $14. A delicious white wine from Tuscany. Read more.
Gerard Boulay, Sancerre, Chavignol, 2005. $21 find this wine

Nypmh whites (young and flowery)

Viognier de Campuget, Cuvée Prestige, vin de
pays d’oc, 2003. $9.99 Find
this wine

Viognier is a peripatetic grape that has landed in the Andes and
California recently. This excellent value example has traveled only
a few dozen miles from the grape’s ancestral home of Condrieu. Hand
harvested from low-yielding vines grown in the Costieres de Nimes
region but bottled as a vin de pays, this 100% Viognier has
excellent aromatics of flowers and white peach. Crisp acidity makes
it very food friendly. Impress your friends with this cuvee prestige
as the weather warms up and dining starts to be al fresco. Winery
and vineyard photos;
Robert Kacher Selections, importer.

Cusumano, Insolia, IGT white, 2003. $8.50 Find this wine From under the Sicilian sun, this youthful white will brighten even a midwinter day. Not a brand, Insolia is actually the name of the local white grape used in this wine. This family-owned winery with 140 acres of vines produces some excellent value vino (including a great red Nero D’Avola) as this distinctive white from 10 year old vines shows. Golden in color with fresh, floral notes similar to a Viognier, this food friendly wine is even robust enough to accompany the flavors of a channa masala.

Dry rosé

Castano, Monastrell rose (rosado), D.O. Yecla,
2003 $7 Find
this wine
I have praised the red wines from Bodegas Castaño before, but this
rosé (aka “Rosado”) wine deserves attention as well. A dry rosé
pressed from the Monastrell (Mourvedre), this clean, not cloying,
pink wine is a great way to get in a summer state of mind. Even
if the thermometer is not yet hitting summer highs, this rose is
a refreshing and versatile food wine-it paired well with an aromatic
and gently spicy curry. Eric Solomon, importer.

Big reds

Etim, Falset Marça, Montsant, 2001. $13 Find
this wine
Wow, why do the good bottles go so quickly? This wine, Grenache
from 60 year old vines with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, hails
from a cooperative in Catalonia’s Montsant region (a lower rent
terroir near the famed Priorat). Silky smooth, with hints of minerality,
blueberry, supple leather, oak influence and faint spice, the greatest
question a consumer of this wine will have is why the bottle is
empty so soon after popping the cork. Yes, this Etim comes in over
the $10 grade but it would be a great accompaniment to an Easter
meal or weekend occasion. Langdon Shiverick importer.

Fairview, Pinotage, (Paarl) 2002. $10 Find
this wine
Charles Back is known for his goats. The owner of the Fairview “wine
farm” in Paarl, South Africa, not only has goats on the property
to make wonderful cheeses, but goats adorn the labels of many of
his wines. (The best known is the light-hearted Goats do Roam, the
largest South African wine brand exported to the United States.)
This wine under the Fairview label is made from the native Pinotage
grape. Forget food friendly; at its worst, Pinotage is not even
friendly! But this Pinotage made in a New World style and has smoldering
dark fruits as well as smoky, leathery aromas that make it compelling
in its distinctiveness. Stump your wine geek friends with this one
in a blind tasting! Importer: Vineyard Brands.

Bodegas Palacio, Cosme Palacio y Hermanos,
red, Rioja, 2001 $10.49 Find
this wine
Hijos de Antonio Barcelo have assembled an attractive portfolio
of value vino producers that includes Viña Mayor and Peñascal. This,
their winery in the Rioja, is new world in its business orientation:
it has no vineyards and purchases all its grapes. Surprisingly,
despite being aged for 10 months in new French oak, the 100% Tempranillo
is not overly oaky (the way many Riojas can be) but has some good
acid as well as the more customary dark fruits, leather and smooth
tannins. The excellent finish really pushes this wine over the edge
to excellent value vino!

Lyeth, Meritage, Sonoma, 2002, $11 Find this wine Remember when Sonoma wines used to be good and affordable? This wine from Sonoma’s Lyeth (rhymes with “teeth”; now a part of the expanding empire of Jean-Claude Boisset) harkens back to that bygone era. A “meritage,” or Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a dash of Cab Franc, this ruby red wine has wonderful aromatics of dark fruits as well as supple tannins and a smooth mouthfeel. Handsome in a sleek, label-less bottle, it would make an excellent gift.

Light, fruity reds

Imus, Montsant, 2002. $6. Find
this wine

This is one Imus to enjoy in the evening. Of course this wine has
nothing to do with the radio shock jock known for the radio program
“Imus in the morning.” The wine hails from the Falset-Marça cooperative
in the Spanish region of Montsant where the locals undoubtedly pronounce
it EEE-mousse. With the light sweetness that is typical of Grenache,
the wine punches above its low price point with good balance and
concentration. A great pizza wine, also try substituting this for
a beaujolais. Importer: Langdon Shiverick.

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, old vines Grenache, 2003, $8.50 The 2003 Las Rocas remains a compelling value vino. However, this vintage of the old-vine Grenache from the viticulturally obscure region of Calatayud, is the reverse of the 2002: unlike last year’s (Parker 91 pts), which I suggested needed 30 minutes of decanting, this vintage is best right after the (synthetic) cork is popped (although after 24 hours uncorked on the counter, it had few signs of deterioration, an honor generally reserved for wines at much higher price points). The light and clear red color gives way to complex aromas of cherry, leather and some spice with an impressive finish for a wine of this price point. After 30 minutes of open air, by contrast, this vintage gained astringency and tartness. So best to drink up quickly! Las Rocas rocks. Importer: Eric Solomon. Find this wine

Domaine de Perrieres, Costieres de Nimes, 2001. $9.99 Find
this wine
Marc Kerydenweiss of Alsace and Burgundy bought a small vineyard
in the Southern French region of Costieres de Nimes in 1999. He
has farmed it using biodynamics, sort of an enhanced organic method
that throws in some astrology. The resulting wines are “concentrated,
rich in minerals and energizing” he claims on his web
site. I did not find myself particularly energized by this wine,
nor was it overly concentrated; instead, there was a distinct minerality,
acidity, and a faint barnyard finish. This blend of Syrah, Carignan
and Grenache would be a wine endorsed by the movie Mondovino
since it is so terroir-driven. A good pick for Earth
Day. NOTE: lovers of “hedonistic fruit bombs” should avoid this
wine. Importer: Wilson
Daniels.

Beyond the grade (but worth it):
Pierre Jourdan NV Cuvee Rose. (pink sparkler, Paarl) $17. Find
this wine
Bianchi Particular, Merlot 2003. (Mendoza) $30 Find
this wine
Bodegas Tikal, Corazon, 2001. (Mendoza) $29 Find
this wine
Dehlinger, Cabernet Franc, 1995. (Russian River) $?? Find
this wine

Guiseppe Quintarelli, Secco Ca’del Merlo, 2003. (Veneto) $35 Find
this wine

From the United States to the Ukraine, the leaders of one billion people were up for grabs in 2004. With voting a hot topic, elected officials serve as the lens for this year’s best wine list. While my usual lists focus on wines under $10, this year-end list gives me a chance to recommend some more expensive selections still bearing in mind good values (or QPR as it is known in wine geek parlance: quality to price ratio) even at higher prices. While I had lots of good—and good value—wines in 2004, I do fear for 2005 as wine consumers start to feel the full effect of the weak dollar. Here are some tips for buying in 2005: stock up at spring and fall sales to make your wine dollar stretch farther; venture off the beaten path; think red, drink red; try dry rosé; try new wines (the weak dollar will force some foreign producers to repackage); take a peek at Portugal. As well as producing some seriously good wines, 2004 also included big stories in sports, jail sentencing, television and other areas that had irresistible wine pairings. Cheers! —Dr. Vino

Best wines, mayors Mayors have limited budgets and provide lots of services aimed at making voters happy-all while keeping an eye on the price. Fortunately, many wines are available in this category. For American mayors, an excellent choice is the House Wine 2002 from Magnificent Wine Co ($10) a big red blend from Washington State. For those foreign or cosmopolitan mayors the I Portali, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture, 2002 ($10) represents great value from the boot of Italy, the Las Rocas de San Alejandro, 2002 ($9) of old vine Grenache from Spain, and the Duboeuf Julienas Flower Label 2003 ($10) all have a refinement and delicacy well above their price point (read: they drink like $30+ wines). More specifics on these wines are available in my lists of best wines under $10.

Best wine, governors Governors preside over bigger budgets than do mayors for the most part. The most notable governor of 2004 was the "Govern-ator" in California so what better than to start this group with one from his native Austria: Nussberg Alte Reben, Wiener Wein, 2002 ($13). Gruner Veltliner is an excellent white worth trying anywhere you used to drink oaky Chardonnay; this one is a particularly good value. Another Teutonic white worth seeking out is the Fitz-Ritter Gewurztraminer Spatlese, 2003 ($14), whose gentle spice notes compliment Thai fusion food. With prices rising faster than the hilly countryside in Priorat, savvy buyers are turning to Montsant. L’Alleu, 2000 ($15) is a silky-smooth bargain blend of Grenache, Caringan, and Cabernet Sauvignon. But as a category this year’s group red winners (and in the next) are the Oregon 2002 Pinot Noirs. Incredibly yummy stuff. Patricia Green, Oregon, 2002 ($18), Ponzi Willamette Valley ($26) St. Innocent Willamette Valley ($26), and Bergstrom Oregon ($24) were all excellent examples of American Pinot Noir.

you can call me gov

Best wines, presidents Presidents go for the very best and even if they are teetotalers, they still need to impress the guests. Impressing is easy with the E. Guigal St. Joseph, lieu dit, 2001 white ($30). A blend of Marsanne and Roussanne from the Northern Rhone, the spectacular aromas of white peach and oak yield to a voluptuous texture and long finish that will easily satisfy and intrigue heads of state. Another intriguing choice is the Quinta do Vale Meao, 2000 ($40) a dense, concentrated red wine made entirely of Portuguese grape varieties in the Duoro region.

Check out my interactive map of NYC wine shops

Best wine for the Defense Department
Shafer, Relentless
2001. ($55) A blend of Syrah and Petite Sirah, this profound and indefatigable wine comes from Shafer’s prime hillside vineyard. Although it’s expensive, with a budget such as theirs, no one will notice.

Best wine for Red Sox fans

Chateau d’Yquem, 1918 ($1,029). This bottle is from the vintage of their last World Series victory. How sweet it is!

Best wine for Howard Dean
Any grands crus Bordeaux from the 2000 vintage. The quality—and the prices!—would
make anyone scream.

Best wine for ousted corporate executives who have to give back bonuses Three Thieves, Zinfandel, NV, 1L jug ($9.99)

Best wine for Martha Stewart
During the trial: Turley,
Old Vines 1997 ($50). The 16% alcohol helps the trial.
In jail: Big House Red, 2002, $8 (or 20 packs of cigarettes)
Upon release: Louis Roederer, Cristal, 1990, ($150) by the case!

Best wine for Kobe Bryant
Chardonnay. Feeling the pressure from the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) crowd, Chardonnay’s popularity has declined. But not as precipitously as Kobe’s whose jersey used to be the top seller and now has dropped to 90th.

Best wine for owners of an iPod Pinot Noir. The hottest product in consumer electronics needs the new "hot wine." And thanks to the movie Sideways, Pinot Noir is the new darling of California. Move over Merlot! Here comes something better! (and more difficult to do well)

Best ‘wine’ when Donald Trump declares "you’re fired"

Boone’s Farm, NV, Sun Pink Peach, ($2.49). Very affordable while in bankruptcy (like Trump’s Taj Mahal casino).

White
Hugel et Fils, Gentil, Alsace, 2002. $9
Etienne Hugel is a confident and funny guy. His confidence in winemaking must come from being the 12th generation to own Hugel et fils. His humor? Well, maybe it comes from his confidence in his wines and wine making. Hugel says he is as proud of this Gentil, his largest production wine, as he is of his excellent limited production Jubilee Riesling ($45). More floral than your grandmother’s couch, this racy white is an unoaked blend of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat and Sylvaner—a veritable catalogue white varietals. Yellow/green in color, the wine has a perfumed sweetness that is not cloying and is great for quaffing on the deck or with seafood. Wildman, importer. www.hugel.com

Reds
Castano, Hecula, 2002, $9.99
This wine turns heads. Guaranteed to have even your biggest wine-geek friends thinking that it costs well over $10, this is a “Parker-style” hedonistic fruit bomb. The Castaño family now has an excellent line-up of big-style, budget reds from their out-of-the-way winery in Yecla. The 100% monastrell (aka mourvedre) wine, aged in American oak for 6 months, will impress even those whose palates have turned to leather. Back up your cart and buy this one with both hands. Importer, Eric Solomon.

Domaine de la Gasqui, vigne du loup, vdp Vaucluse, $9 (sale)
Life may not be a bowl of cherries, but this wine is a glass of red berries. With the gentle sweetness that is typical of Grenache, these 80 year old vines from the base of Mt. Ventoux have produced an approachable and medium-bodied wine, light in color. Although not officially organic according to the new USDA standards (no wine meets the USDA standards) the wine does meet the “agiculture biologique” standards of Ecocert. Jeffrey Davies, importer.

Domaine de la Petite Cassagne, AOC Costieres de Nimes, red. 1999. $4 (sale, $9.99 regular)
Dr Vino readers are already familiar with the wines of Grande Cassagne but this one from Petite Cassagne bears mentioning, particularly at the petite sale price. Wonderful textures of the Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan make this probably the best $4 wine I have ever tasted (I would even pay full price for it!) with notes of blackcurrant that contribute to its full flavor. Consider this the “4 buck Charles” as you buy it by the case. Robert Kacher, importer.

Chateau St. Germain, Coteaux du Languedoc, red, 2000. $6.60 (sale, $9.99 regular)
Think ink, as in inky purple. Purple label, purple cap and inky-purple wine, this vigorous Chateau St. Germain has gobs of purple fruits such as plum and blackberries. Although the wine has 15% alcohol a good balance makes it rounded and not heady. Languedoc has made a significant qualitative turn in the past decade and this Syrah-Grenache blend of hand harvested fruit, grown chemical-free, is a good representative. Jeffrey M. Davies, importer.

Baron Rothschild, Carmenere, Reserve, 2001. $9
Carmenere, the fraternal twin of Merlot, is in safe hands Chez Rothschild. Except that this is the Rothschild chateau away from the chateau at their property in Chile. With notes of blackcurrant, this lush black cherry colored wine has a smooth finish. Bold design on the label makes it a good wine to bring to a party since your selection will stand out. An easy food match, try it with smoked meats. Importer: Caravelle Wine Selections.

Moulin d’Eole, 2001, Costieres de Nimes. $9
The Costieres de Nimes region is cranking out lots of excellent value reds in a Rhone style. This excellent one, imported by Kysela, resembles a Cotes Rotie with delicate floral notes in the aroma followed by the usual notes of leather, dark berries, smoked meat, and that southern France flavor of garrigue. Best at room temperature, the soft tannins lead to a longish finish. Knock the socks off anyone you’re having over on a weeknight with this wine!

Encuentro, Ribera del Duero, 2000, $8
While good bargains are becoming increasingly hard to find in Spain’s Ribera del Duero region, Trader Joe’s grocery stores have tracked down a good value vino. Encuentro, or “meeting” in Spanish, is a good example of a Ribera, although a bit lighter and not as full bodied as other wines that are now above the $10 price point. One does wonder where this 100% Tempranillo crianza (12 months oak cask aging) has been since the 2000 vintage, but it still has smooth notes of plum and leather making it a good accompaniment to lamb or simply easy drinking at your favorite encounters. Plum Ridge imports for TJ’s.

Habitat, red blend, Napa Valley, 2002. $9.
A California red for under $10 that is worth drinking?! The only thing more amazing is that this yummy red is also made from organically grown grapes (although since no wine technically meets USDA organic standards, the producers opted for the more oblique “handcrafted” on the label). The blend of 50% pinot noir, 25% cab, 25% merlot actually works and comes off as a rounded red, with a welcoming aroma of dark fruits and a finish that leaves you saying “hey California, how about some more good under $10s!?!” Send back the screw-cap top and the winery will donate $1 to an ecological cause. You don’t need to save this one for Earth Day since it would be a good house wine for your domestic habitat.

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, old vine Grenache, 2002, $7.79
Las Rocas “may be the greatest wine value I have ever tasted” according to Robert Parker who bestowed 91 points on this Grenache from 75 year old vines in the remote Calatayud region. With many great wines under $10 available, Parker’s comments may seem hyperbolic, but the Las Rocas does have has certain stand-out characteristics. Most notable is an ability to evolve in the glass that is rare for wines of this price. When first opened, the wine is closed, without striking aromas or flavors. But left to open up for an hour, the wine’s aroma becomes more complex with a sweet black cherries and smoke and a long, pleasant finish. Decanting essential. Eric Solomon, importer.

Beyond the grade (but worth it):
Domaine Weinbach, Gewurztraminer, Cuvee Theo, 2002 ($20)
Belles Soeurs, pinot noir, Willamette Valley, 2001 ($40)
Elizabeth Spencer, Napa, Cabernet 2000 ($26)
Mas de la Barben, Coteaux de Languedoc, 1999 ($12)