Veau chaud – veal hot dog – impossible food-wine pairing?!?

Chef Yannick Alléno, recipient of three Michelin stars, adores New York hot dogs. According to a piece in the NYT Dining section, he loves the hot dog so much that he wanted to make a French version, out of calf heads. Instead of calling it literally a “chien chaud,” he opted for truth in labeling, going with “veau chaud” (hot calf). Site reader Caleb Ganzer writes in to see if we might try to pair it up. And to that we reply “fo sho with the veau chaud”

So here’s a bit more on the dish that can be eaten without a plate. The nine-inch sausage is made from “edible bits of a cooked calf head, or tête de veau” (brains and eyes excluded). Served on a mulitgrain (!) baguette, the dog, or calf, is topped with gribiche sauce, which is a vinaigrette with capers, cornichons, and hard boiled egg, herbs and mustard.

“I have adapted the ‘dog’ to the true ambience of Paris,” Alléno told the Times. “There is nothing more Parisian than tête de veau.”

And there’s nothing more French than wine! So which wine would you pair with it? Or is it…impossible?!?

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11 Responses to “Veau chaud – veal hot dog – impossible food-wine pairing?!?”

  1. You can’t take a hot dog (even one made out of tête de veau) too seriously, so there’s no point in pairing it with a ‘serious’ (read prestige) wine. The Parisians, like the Lyonnais, would probably choose a juicy, fruity Beaujolais as a match for all kinds of charcuterie, and that’s where I’d start looking. If I wanted to go upmarket, I’d aim for a Beaujolais cru, rather than an entry-level bottle – maybe a mineral-driven, sappy Côte de Brouilly.

  2. Rosé.

  3. What do Parisians (who cannot even make a good chacroute garni) know about sausage? Alsace is the answer Gewurtztraminer from Dom. Stirn. Or, if you don’t eat it with mustard, a Riesling from Alsace will work just fine.

  4. Theo Minges’ riesling halbtrocken in the liter bottle. Heck make it two bottles!

  5. Wait a tick… Just Francaise! Naturally Alsacian wines come to mind, but ones with good acid, like Bott Geyl and Ostertag… For reds, how ’bout a mondeuse?

  6. Too easy: Any decent Edelzwicker.

  7. An off-dry Riesling!

  8. i like the rose suggestion. although i would go for a fancy beer with a veal hotdog. maybe a nice duvel

  9. Just plain red.

  10. I second the Alsatian gewurztraminer. Or how about a demi-sec Vouvray?

  11. What about the $100 hotdog that’s been in the news recently – flavored with one of the best cognacs? did an article on it. Crazy, hey?


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