A couple of zippy whites – Benaza Godello and Huards Cheverny

As the weather warms up, a couple of zippy whites may be in order. I’ve had both of these recently and they struck me for both being built on lean, acid cores but with slightly more weight roundness on the finish than your average summer sipper. It’s kind of like sauvignon blanc meets chardonnay–and in the case of Domaine des Huards, that’s exactly what it is! From the Cheverny appellation in the eastern Loire, the deliciously refreshing, wonderfully minerally wine is 85 percent sauvignon with 15 percent chardonnay. The 2008 balances citrusy acidity with a wet rocky quality beautifully; the 2009, of which I had tasting sized pour a couple of weeks later, seemed to have even more crackling acidity. (about $16; find this wine) For all the Tintin lovers out there, the chateau that adorns the label, Chateau Cheverny, served as the model for Captain Haddock’s country house.

The Benaza Godello (about $12; find this wine) is good, clean fun because it takes a grape from Galicia that few people have heard of and then wins them over in the glass. Again, good acidity with a bit more roundness, perhaps from two months on the lees, perhaps from a dollop of the treixadura grape that is blended in, or perhaps from the 30-50 year-old vines themselves. Chill and serve with seafood on the deck. Also of note: the Benaza red wine made from the mencia grape is a pretty tasty value as well.

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7 Responses to “A couple of zippy whites – Benaza Godello and Huards Cheverny”

  1. I am one of the few among my peers that love white wines. I think whites can offer a lot more diversity than reds and I’m always on the lookout for something deliciously obscure. Thanks for the recommendations — I hope I can find them.

  2. I completely agree about the godello! Coincidentally, I have had 2 bottles of that exact wine this week – love it!


  3. Love these picks! The Godello, haven’t seen this particular producer in Texas though (yet). Will be on the hunt this week..Cheers – Ali

  4. we’re serving a godello by the glass and people are loving it. such an attractive and pleasant wine! here’s the link to the producer’s site, I hope his wine is available in the US

  5. Both fantastic picks, and I love the price (our iPhone app users would too)!

    I couldn’t agree more about a little seafood on the deck with a glass of Godello.

    Hello Vino

  6. Domaine des Huards is a fantastic producer… their Romorantin from the Cour-Cheverny AC is great – yet I think you have one too many Os in their name.

    I recently did a post on Cour-Cheverny and Romorantin:


  7. […] we encountered our first disappointment of the night. I poured the good value godello from Benaza ($13) in all the glasses and as our hostess smelled it, she wondered aloud if there wasn’t […]


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