Comments on: Philippe Pacalet, a rule breaker making natural Burgundy

By: Accidental Grand Tasting « Talk-A-Vino

Accidental Grand Tasting « Talk-A-Vino — Mon, 21 Feb 2011 03:59:45 +0000

[...] This wine was made by Philippe Pacalet, one of the big proponents of the natural wines in France (here is a good blog post about him by Dr. Vino). This wine was totally different from the assertive Condrieu – [...]

By: Joe Sage

Joe Sage — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 06:38:52 +0000

Morton Leslie, please don’t dismiss Pacalet as ignorant.
The problem raised by Pacalet is a serious one. Vineyards in Burgundy tend to propagate their vinestock using cuttings from their own vineyard – the idea being that this will retain the character of the site despite the replacement of old, dying or unproductive vines. The problem is that this vinestock isn’t sterile and any viruses are passed down and accumulate over the generations. Accordingly, the Burgundians are criticized for having “inbred” (suffering from too many generations of cloning) vinestock while the Americans are criticized for using sterile rootstock that is “too clean” – our wines might benefit from a bit of virus.
Pacalet’s wines are different, and whether one likes them or not, he merits respect for making interesting, unique wines in a part of the world where there has been so little innovation — because all wines from a particular site or appellation in Burgundy are expected to display a determined set of characteristics.
As a bonus he a funny and friendly guy.

By: Hey

Hey — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:30:36 +0000

I don’t see why vintners don’t just take the Super Tuscan route. Make it a Vin de Pays and charge what it should cost if not for the petty politics of the local AOC.

Embarrass the AOCs enough and you’ll either get and IGTesque designation or have CRAV bomb you. Being France, a terrorist bombing of an innovative and superlative producer is more likely, but someone needs to introduce the word “entrepreneur” to the French language!

The rather nutty restrictions on French Vin de Table could make for a problematic marketing strategy, but judicious name selection like “Les Sept Anciens” can get around at least the vintage, if not the appellation restriction. It is rather hilarious that AOC regulations are hitting the MOST typique and authentic producers who emit terroir through their pores. It’s bad enough to be trapped in an AOC/DOCG with crappy traditions and environment (ok so Beaujolais is sort of that also) and not be able to use better techniques (see IGT), but for a producer who is only trying to make the traditional regional wine to be screwed by the system…

This is why I prefer the New World approach to naming – geographic restrictions only, with truth in labeling on your constituent grapes. In certain areas the restrictions are nowhere near stringent enough as to origin or type of grape, but that gets sorted out in the market place. The AOC ranger types tend to be those who rely on their appellation for their income, rather on their own skill as vignerons and the quality of their vineyards.

By: wineblogcentral.com

wineblogcentral.com — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 17:41:49 +0000

Philippe Pacalet, a rule breaker making natural Burgundy | Dr Vino’s wine blog…

Pacalet is the nephew of Marcel Lapierre, one of the leaders of natural wine in France whose scrumptious Morgon 2006 I’ve mentioned before. In the 1980s, he developed an affinity for natural wines working with his uncle and Jules Chauvet, an importan…

By: Morton Leslie

Morton Leslie — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 16:45:38 +0000

“Pacalet told us that he believes that much of the vinifera vines in France have been weakened by generations of inbreeding”

That comment displays such immense ignorance to viticulture it completely overshadows the banality of his other “ideas.” No wonder he buys his grapes.

By: Dylan

Dylan — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:09:24 +0000

“I don’t pay taxes to make a vin de table.” Good for him!

The man stands up for the integrity of his product. I’m rooting to see that he be accepted for the appellation based on that alone. Although even if they were to concede the appellation, with such pride I wonder if he would spit in the face of good business sense to make such a point about the matter.

By: Burgundy-Report » 2006 chambolle-musigny from arlaud and lignier-michelot

Burgundy-Report » 2006 chambolle-musigny from arlaud and lignier-michelot — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 07:42:19 +0000

[...] finally – hot off the press – Philippe Pacalet is a GMO monster [...]

By: wolfgang

wolfgang — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 20:57:55 +0000

Hey Tyler,

Thanks for linking to my Chronicle article…much appreciated!

Your post, and Steinberger’s Slate piece (love him), were both informative reads. My, what a travesty (quel horreur!). And here I thought Italy was f-ed up. Anyway, the idea of treating the AOC as a vinous birth certificate is intriguing; informed wine consumers probably already think of it in those terms anyway.

Meanwhile, GM vines…I don’t know enough about genetics to know whether or not that’s a viable solution to disease control but it does strike me as an odd comment: If, in nature, such mutation and “inbreeding”, as Pacalet says, dilutes the purity of the vine as an organism, why wouldn’t a similar thing happen, eventually, to a GM vine? Or would that require perpetual genetic modification. If so, I don’t see that being much different, philosophically at least, from spraying.

Thoughts for the day…off tonight for Muslim Chinese and bringing riesling of course! If any enlightened pairings happen, I’ll be sure to let you know.

- wolfgang