Get your Bojo working – 2006 Lapierre, Roilette edition
Last year, I was loving the serious 2005 Beaujolais from many of the ten “crus,” or sub-zones of the downtrodden region. I’ve tasted a few 2006s (and look forward to more) and wanted to highlight this excellent duo.
Marcel Lapierre, Morgon, 2006. $21 (find this wine) Importer: Kermit Lynch.
This beautiful wine comes from Marcel Lapierre, one of the qualitative leaders of the region known for a long period of barrel aging. This extended élévage, as it is known, provides the wine with complexity and the ability to better combat oxidation since Lapierre bottles without sulfur, an antioxidant commonly used for stabilizing the wines during shipping. This vintage is particularly succulent and Mrs. Vino had the good sense to demand that I buy more of the wine after her first sip. I happily obliged. The wine will make a good gift not only because of what’s inside but also because of the handsome presentation–along with the wax cap. I’m a sucker for wax caps.
IN the glass, the wine is light in color and actually tastes like a really superb gamay as opposed to many of the best Beaujolais that end up tasting like pinot noir (hey, I’m not complaining, just observing). But gamay has such alluring fruit, lively acidity and smooth tannins when done right that it is hard to refuse. The traditional food pairing is dried sausage but it’s really hard to go wrong since it is so food-friendly.
Of note, Marcel Lapierre is one of the qualitative leaders in the Beaujolais. Check out this excellent article from the Saveur archive on Lapierre and his damascene conversion at the hands of Jules Chauvet.
Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie, 2006. $20 (find this wine) Importer: Louis/Dressner
This wine is darker and more concentrated, a twist on the traditional reputations of the “masculine” Morgon and the “feminine” Fleurie appellations. The concentration does not sacrifice the overall tastiness and, although rich, the wine still has good acidity. I brought it to some friends’ house and they were rapturous in their praise. And to think I got it for only $16! I’ll definitely buy this one again–and look for the Cuvée Tardive, which is more age worthy. Yes, age-worthy Beaujolais! More on that in a future post.
On July 22nd, 2008 at 6:32 pm ,Ian Davidson wrote:
Hi:
Great post! I have trouble getting into Beaujolais but do promise to try harder. 😉
Keep up the great work.
Ian
On July 24th, 2008 at 7:19 pm ,Noah wrote:
The 06 Lapierre is killer. When first opened my mind went to Volnay. On whole I much prefer the 06s to the 05s in beaujolais. 05s are too hefty for me. I like the elegance and freshness of 06. Although it’s really interesting to taste 05s and 06s together.
On August 18th, 2008 at 6:21 am ,What I learned on my summer vacation | Dr Vino's wine blog wrote:
[…] red that everyone can enjoy. (find this wine) * The Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2006 that I have enjoyed previously was also a big hit! (find this wine) * I found a new favorite wine for my sister who claims not to […]
On August 24th, 2008 at 11:38 am ,Philippe Pacalet, a rule breaker making natural Burgundy | Dr Vino's wine blog wrote:
[…] is the nephew of Marcel Lapierre, one of the leaders of natural wine in France whose scrumptious Morgon 2006 I’ve mentioned before. He worked with his uncle in the 1980s and developed an affinity for natural wines. Today, he is a […]
On November 20th, 2008 at 7:58 am ,Cru Beaujolais: some factoids | Dr Vino's wine blog wrote:
[…] cuvee tardive. Cru Beaujolais magnums also make great gifts; to wit, I just got a magnum of Lapierre Morgon 07 at Appellation Wine and Spirits […]