Comments on: The neglected wine pairing: food writing http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/ wine talk that goes down easy Sun, 08 Nov 2009 04:33:43 -0700 http://wordpress.org/?v=abc hourly 1 By: Gayle http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-118581 Gayle Sun, 29 Jun 2008 20:01:06 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-118581 I think if you're reviewing a resto and you ask the sommelier to choose the wines to accompany your meal (or there's a set flight for a tasting menu), that should be an integral part of the review. It reflects the restaurant's abilility to put a complete meal together - their unique take on both the food and wine. But it gets a bit more dicey for most food writers (I'm one, tho I write about trends rather than straight reviews) to judge a resto based on just looking at the wine list. Or, if a reviewer chooses her/his own wine and it doesn't pair well with the food, then whose fault is that? The level of complexity definitely increases when you add wine to the review. It takes masterful wine knowledge to look at a wine list and judge if the list in general is appropriate for the foods offered on the menu. And even then, if you don't actually try them all out as pairings, it's mere speculation. An interesting topic, Tyler! I think if you’re reviewing a resto and you ask the sommelier to choose the wines to accompany your meal (or there’s a set flight for a tasting menu), that should be an integral part of the review. It reflects the restaurant’s abilility to put a complete meal together – their unique take on both the food and wine.

But it gets a bit more dicey for most food writers (I’m one, tho I write about trends rather than straight reviews) to judge a resto based on just looking at the wine list. Or, if a reviewer chooses her/his own wine and it doesn’t pair well with the food, then whose fault is that?

The level of complexity definitely increases when you add wine to the review. It takes masterful wine knowledge to look at a wine list and judge if the list in general is appropriate for the foods offered on the menu. And even then, if you don’t actually try them all out as pairings, it’s mere speculation.

An interesting topic, Tyler!

]]> By: Denise Clarke http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-108840 Denise Clarke Tue, 27 May 2008 02:01:56 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-108840 Wine has intimidated the average American for many years. People don't realize that Europeans drink wine with almost every meal and it is just a part of their culture. I believe that it is difficult for the food critique to go out on a limb and declare ... hey I liked a wine and not have its "pedigree" to back it up. It is a rare individual that says I like this wine, I enjoy the enhancement it gives my food and I don't care if you like my choice or not. Wine and food pairing is an different for everyone. So relax and enjoy! Regards Denise http://www.WineFoodPairing.blogspot.com Wine has intimidated the average American for many years. People don’t realize that Europeans drink wine with almost every meal and it is just a part of their culture. I believe that it is difficult for the food critique to go out on a limb and declare … hey I liked a wine and not have its “pedigree” to back it up. It is a rare individual that says I like this wine, I enjoy the enhancement it gives my food and I don’t care if you like my choice or not.

Wine and food pairing is an different for everyone. So relax and enjoy!

Regards

Denise
http://www.WineFoodPairing.blogspot.com

]]> By: Dale Cruse http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-108704 Dale Cruse Mon, 26 May 2008 16:22:48 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-108704 The more I think about it, the more I realize that for a restaurant reviewer to critique when would be comparing apples to oranges. You see, the food tasted at the restaurant is prepared by the restaurant. The wine that restaurant serves is prepared by someone else. To critique the wine would be out of scope for a restaurant review. However, to critique the wine list and how carefully chosen (or not) it is would be fair. The more I think about it, the more I realize that for a restaurant reviewer to critique when would be comparing apples to oranges. You see, the food tasted at the restaurant is prepared by the restaurant. The wine that restaurant serves is prepared by someone else. To critique the wine would be out of scope for a restaurant review.

However, to critique the wine list and how carefully chosen (or not) it is would be fair.

]]> By: Kathy http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-108699 Kathy Mon, 26 May 2008 16:12:37 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-108699 One of the main reasons why restaurant reviewers don't write about wine is because the budget doesn't allow it. When I was features editor at the Oakland Trib, the restaurant reviewer went to each restaurant, with another person, twice before writing the review. The object: to taste more than one dish and to experience the food, service, and ambiance...more than one time. The Trib, even when near bankruptcy, paid the bill. From an editorial budget POV, were the food reviewer to review the wine as well, even by the glass,...well you can see where this bill is going. We debated the wine issue long and hard at the Trib and that was 15 years ago, long before wine had turned the corner on the American palate. In addition, Ed is right because the wine influences the food, too. Would the dish be as clearly correct? or better? without the wine? When you factor in webistes and bloggers where often there is no "take-home" pay, people have to follow their passion. And pay out of their own pockets. It is a reason, I believe, why people who really like wine tend to cook at home. A restaurateur never expects that you are there for the wine and, by the way, could the chef make the food match? What's in the bottle is what you've got. What's in the sauce can (foodies be calm!) be tweaked. And what we really want when we go to a restaurant is great service. That changes the taste of everything. One of the main reasons why restaurant reviewers don’t write about wine is because the budget doesn’t allow it. When I was features editor at the Oakland Trib, the restaurant reviewer went to each restaurant, with another person, twice before writing the review. The object: to taste more than one dish and to experience the food, service, and ambiance…more than one time. The Trib, even when near bankruptcy, paid the bill.
From an editorial budget POV, were the food reviewer to review the wine as well, even by the glass,…well you can see where this bill is going.
We debated the wine issue long and hard at the Trib and that was 15 years ago, long before wine had turned the corner on the American palate.
In addition, Ed is right because the wine influences the food, too. Would the dish be as clearly correct? or better? without the wine?
When you factor in webistes and bloggers where often there is no “take-home” pay, people have to follow their passion. And pay out of their own pockets.
It is a reason, I believe, why people who really like wine tend to cook at home. A restaurateur never expects that you are there for the wine and, by the way, could the chef make the food match?
What’s in the bottle is what you’ve got. What’s in the sauce can (foodies be calm!) be tweaked. And what we really want when we go to a restaurant is great service. That changes the taste of everything.

]]> By: Stanley Kessler http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-108388 Stanley Kessler Sun, 25 May 2008 12:46:49 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-108388 My wife and I love Italian food, when we are interested in a new restaurant, we are also always interested in learning about their wine. We were fortunate a few months ago to attend an event at the Italian Culinary Institute where we met Frederico and Chef Jordan, two of a three man team that blog about Italian food AND wine (although most of the time they only mention wines of Italian origin). The site is called abbondanza, over at www.inabbondanza.com. They don't really rate the wines, but they talk about what they had with each course and what the restaurants offer. We find this to be a welcome and refreshing change to the norm where the wines are usually ignored. My wife and I love Italian food, when we are interested in a new restaurant, we are also always interested in learning about their wine. We were fortunate a few months ago to attend an event at the Italian Culinary Institute where we met Frederico and Chef Jordan, two of a three man team that blog about Italian food AND wine (although most of the time they only mention wines of Italian origin). The site is called abbondanza, over at http://www.inabbondanza.com. They don’t really rate the wines, but they talk about what they had with each course and what the restaurants offer. We find this to be a welcome and refreshing change to the norm where the wines are usually ignored.

]]> By: Steve http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-106222 Steve Tue, 20 May 2008 21:16:51 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-106222 Amen, Dale Amen, Dale

]]> By: Dale Cruse http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-106123 Dale Cruse Tue, 20 May 2008 17:19:54 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-106123 Wine IS food! Wine IS food!

]]> By: Arthur http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-106120 Arthur Tue, 20 May 2008 17:05:18 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-106120 Henre As your choice of words idicates, preference and enjoyment are in fact personal. What is not variable and wildly different is our physiology. Your point about enjoying the white with a steak is a good example why Foodwine Fridays would be ineresting - but ONLY if we write about our observations and not prefrenece or enjoyment based responses. Those are very different and we are capable of making the distinction. Henre

As your choice of words idicates, preference and enjoyment are in fact personal.

What is not variable and wildly different is our physiology.

Your point about enjoying the white with a steak is a good example why Foodwine Fridays would be ineresting – but ONLY if we write about our observations and not prefrenece or enjoyment based responses.

Those are very different and we are capable of making the distinction.

]]> By: East Village Wine Geek http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-106050 East Village Wine Geek Tue, 20 May 2008 13:43:13 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-106050 I can't imagine writing about food and not including wine. This is just where I ended up. I am not a fan of beer and the hard stuff is for after dinner in my world. I am obsessed with wine. Others may be intimidated by wine but there are people out there craving to read someones thoughts on wine and food pairing. Someone needs to make it fun and enjoyable to read. There is a market out there someone just needs to make a noise. We bloggers are doing a great job but we need to take it up a notch and delve into other media. Wouldn't it be cool if your reading a fun laid back report on a particular restaurant and the writer talks about the decor and then the service moving seamlessly to the dishes and possible wine pairings. Even if the reader is not into wine the writing should be interesting enough that this non-wine loving-person can still enjoy the review while a wine lover can devour it as well. EvWg I can’t imagine writing about food and not including wine. This is just where I ended up. I am not a fan of beer and the hard stuff is for after dinner in my world. I am obsessed with wine. Others may be intimidated by wine but there are people out there craving to read someones thoughts on wine and food pairing. Someone needs to make it fun and enjoyable to read. There is a market out there someone just needs to make a noise. We bloggers are doing a great job but we need to take it up a notch and delve into other media. Wouldn’t it be cool if your reading a fun laid back report on a particular restaurant and the writer talks about the decor and then the service moving seamlessly to the dishes and possible wine pairings. Even if the reader is not into wine the writing should be interesting enough that this non-wine loving-person can still enjoy the review while a wine lover can devour it as well.

EvWg

]]> By: Marco http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-106024 Marco Tue, 20 May 2008 12:33:06 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-106024 In my case it was finding the red wine that was the epiphany of pairing. I have had white wine ones too, but not as strongly convincing. That was a Rioja Reserva with grilled lamb and I have never looked back. In my case it was finding the red wine that was the epiphany of pairing. I have had white wine ones too, but not as strongly convincing. That was a Rioja Reserva with grilled lamb and I have never looked back.

]]> By: Steve http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-105988 Steve Tue, 20 May 2008 10:31:27 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-105988 One of the reasons for this disconnect is that wine isn’t considered a food in the US. It’s an alcoholic drink regulated by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms that was once illegal! This puritanical attitude is deeply embedded. A glass of wine at a business lunch in the US just might get your workmates concerned about a drinking problem; something that wouldn’t happen in most of Europe. There’s also – I hate to say – something un-American about wine in that it doesn’t fit the guts and glory spirit of innovation and experimentation. It’s more about refinement, while food seems to be getting increasingly (and wildly) innovative by the minute. The list goes on: Wine is anti-egalitarian, which is something that Ed touches on. Pretty much everyone “gets” food but people aren’t always sure about what makes a good wine. Wine considered “fancy” in a culture that values casual living. Wine doesn’t lend itself to entertaining TV. Where does Emeril go “bam” in a wine show? That said, a big juicy hamburger without a big tannic red wine isn’t just a missed opportunity, it’s a tragedy. How does that work? I’ll have the DB burger and a glass of water. NO! One of the reasons for this disconnect is that wine isn’t considered a food in the US. It’s an alcoholic drink regulated by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms that was once illegal! This puritanical attitude is deeply embedded. A glass of wine at a business lunch in the US just might get your workmates concerned about a drinking problem; something that wouldn’t happen in most of Europe.

There’s also – I hate to say – something un-American about wine in that it doesn’t fit the guts and glory spirit of innovation and experimentation. It’s more about refinement, while food seems to be getting increasingly (and wildly) innovative by the minute.

The list goes on:
Wine is anti-egalitarian, which is something that Ed touches on. Pretty much everyone “gets” food but people aren’t always sure about what makes a good wine.

Wine considered “fancy” in a culture that values casual living.

Wine doesn’t lend itself to entertaining TV. Where does Emeril go “bam” in a wine show?

That said, a big juicy hamburger without a big tannic red wine isn’t just a missed opportunity, it’s a tragedy. How does that work? I’ll have the DB burger and a glass of water. NO!

]]> By: Henre http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-105940 Henre Tue, 20 May 2008 08:35:17 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-105940 I might be stepping on toes here, but surely "food and wine pairing" as a concept is relative. Food is a complex thing in the same manner that wine is very complex. But when it comes to pairings, surely the beauty is in the palate of the individual? I've never really understood the reason for "professional pairings". I can fathom that certain wines may elevate or accentuate the flavour of certain foods, but essentially eating and drinking boils down to the personal experience in the end. I could probably just as easily enjoy a white wine with fillet steak than any other recommended pairing, simply because of the desire of the palate, the mood and the atmosphere. Emotion obviously also plays a big part in this as well. Subsequently I believe food writers stick to the principle of highlighting great foods, flavours that go and settings that complement the occasion. Pairing a meal with wine is up to the diner. For me personally, even though it's accepted manner to drink water with a meal to thoroughly heighten the flavour, it is just something I cannot commit myself in doing. As always, I'm open to change of opinion :-) I might be stepping on toes here, but surely “food and wine pairing” as a concept is relative.

Food is a complex thing in the same manner that wine is very complex. But when it comes to pairings, surely the beauty is in the palate of the individual?

I’ve never really understood the reason for “professional pairings”. I can fathom that certain wines may elevate or accentuate the flavour of certain foods, but essentially eating and drinking boils down to the personal experience in the end.

I could probably just as easily enjoy a white wine with fillet steak than any other recommended pairing, simply because of the desire of the palate, the mood and the atmosphere. Emotion obviously also plays a big part in this as well.

Subsequently I believe food writers stick to the principle of highlighting great foods, flavours that go and settings that complement the occasion.

Pairing a meal with wine is up to the diner.

For me personally, even though it’s accepted manner to drink water with a meal to thoroughly heighten the flavour, it is just something I cannot commit myself in doing.

As always, I’m open to change of opinion :-)

]]> By: Dr. Vino http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-105809 Dr. Vino Tue, 20 May 2008 02:42:24 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-105809 Just catching up now - thanks for all the great comments. Alyse - nice observations. In a similar vein, I have thought that it would be great if Eric Asimov, who used to review restaurants under $25, accompanied Frank Bruni on some reviews of particularly wine-worthy restaurants. Arthur - Many wine blogs and publications do include food as I see it. It's getting food types to include wine that's the hard part. As for the idea of Food-wine Fridays, I'm all for it! Pairing can be overdone, as Michael suggests, but this way is an open one where a reader can sift through a bunch of suggestions and decide what works for him or her. As to the wine and TV, as we've discussed on this blog before, it is a tough pairing for several reasons, but someone will do it! Just catching up now – thanks for all the great comments.

Alyse – nice observations. In a similar vein, I have thought that it would be great if Eric Asimov, who used to review restaurants under $25, accompanied Frank Bruni on some reviews of particularly wine-worthy restaurants.

Arthur – Many wine blogs and publications do include food as I see it. It’s getting food types to include wine that’s the hard part. As for the idea of Food-wine Fridays, I’m all for it! Pairing can be overdone, as Michael suggests, but this way is an open one where a reader can sift through a bunch of suggestions and decide what works for him or her.

As to the wine and TV, as we’ve discussed on this blog before, it is a tough pairing for several reasons, but someone will do it!

]]> By: nick http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-105666 nick Mon, 19 May 2008 20:42:32 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-105666 Just because i havent seen the shows on the Fine Living channel mentioned i will throw them out there: "Pairings with Andrea" does discuss the relationship between food and wine and is perhaps one of the best of this style available. "Thirsty Traveler" also brings some of this discussion to TV but with more travel channel thrown in. "Napa Style" while primarily a cooking show does occasionally discuss pairings. but this show tends to place more time on cooking... just thought i would bring these up... Just because i havent seen the shows on the Fine Living channel mentioned i will throw them out there:

“Pairings with Andrea” does discuss the relationship between food and wine and is perhaps one of the best of this style available.

“Thirsty Traveler” also brings some of this discussion to TV but with more travel channel thrown in.

“Napa Style” while primarily a cooking show does occasionally discuss pairings. but this show tends to place more time on cooking…

just thought i would bring these up…

]]> By: Arthur http://www.drvino.com/2008/05/19/the-neglected-wine-pairing-food-writing/#comment-105660 Arthur Mon, 19 May 2008 20:32:09 +0000 http://www.drvino.com/?p=1693#comment-105660 Michael, I suppose it is a matter of what one reads that leads us to the conclusion of whether there is too much or not enough wine & food pairing addressed in wine writing. At the same time, I recognize that many people - like yourself - generally do not drink wine with food (or meals). For that reason, I will be addressing both food friendliness and stand-alone appeal of wines in my new review format. Michael,

I suppose it is a matter of what one reads that leads us to the conclusion of whether there is too much or not enough wine & food pairing addressed in wine writing.

At the same time, I recognize that many people – like yourself – generally do not drink wine with food (or meals).

For that reason, I will be addressing both food friendliness and stand-alone appeal of wines in my new review format.

]]>