The New Yorker, food issue

The New Yorker’s food issue is now on newsstands. It seems that the magazine is doing a food issue every summer now with one appearing each of the last three (or is it four?) summers.

What’s interesting for wine geeks is that wine has gotten such short shrift in the pages of the New Yorker. In the annual food issues, there has been only one article having to do with wine, Calvin Trillin’s piece from a few years ago that suggested wine drinkers couldn’t differentiate between red and white wines by taste alone.

Couple that absence with Adam Gopnik’s wide-ranging review article last summer, which suggested that wine writing and wine appreciation vocabulary are a mere fig leaf for justifying getting drunk, and one might suspect an anti-wine plot at the magazine. Does editor David Remnick think wine is frivolous? Or uninteresting? Or even unpalatable? One would think that wine is a perfect match with the magazine’s readership. Nobody would expect a piece about wine and food pairings from the New Yorker, but there are plenty of interesting stories about, hmm, say, people in the industry or the business and politics of wine.

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